Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i was trying to look for some answers to fitting a front strut bar im looking fitting one but i have a turbo that sits near the right hand tower (its a r32 gts4) was seeing if people have problems with this and if there is special braces people use to over come this??

post-93126-0-05366600-1355135812_thumb.jpg

Hard to tell for sure from your photo, but I dont think you will have clearance issues, Turbo sits just above the cam cover on yours, and their designed to clear the crossover pipe so I dont think you'll have an issue. Mine has miles of clearance between the cam covers and strut brace:

20120510_162549.jpg

mine was very close, even more so because the turbo has a heat sheild; however the stagea factory strut brace does sit very high. I could see a highmount turbo fouling a strut brace pretty easily.

yeah alright cheers guys yeah was looking at a juran brace

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110938918712?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_3009wt_1057

looks like is quiet flat so any one got pics of these sort fitted?

Looks like it has a similar profile to my Tomei9 3 point, it looks fairly flat in pictures but actually sits fairly closely to 89Cals brace up the top.

Only pics I really have of it but should give you some idea.

218017_1556925897923_3086107_n.jpg

426853_2411456740660_647678995_n.jpg

Edit: having a closer look at that Juran brace it loks like it won't even need to sit above the turbo as it sits further back than the forward-most tophat bolt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...