Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mat- How do the BC's ride? I have a set waiting to go in the car pretty excited and would like a bit more of a drop nothing too illegal though..

Edited by Seano350GT

I know like any mass produced coilover where they overcome limited valving options using different spring rates that the ride can be hit and miss but the research i did on people using them in 350's and on g35driver suggested they were very good in this platform. Similar to when i had my 530 M-sport - all the e39 M5 owners swore by them, even over much more expensive german coilovers. Sometimes they just get it right.

As for preload - there are pretty specific instructions, especially in the rear due to the OEM style setup (separate spring and shock). As i said, i haven't driven the car yet. I'll wait for the springs to settle first, then I'll adjust height and preload - then do my damping. But i'm also missing one 20 inch rim at the moment, with a 17 in it's place - so it's sitting a bit skew-if at the time being, can't do any adjustments till i get that wheel back.

Sean - the drop is pretty flexible. I have a good 1.5 inches up and down from where they are right now. I'm not about riding it in the weeds, but if you wanted to go low you could. At the height it currently sits, it is 100mm clearance at plastic cover in front of the rear subframe and 110mm at the undertray at the front, and I'm pretty happy with the way the wheels sit in the gaurds, but will plan to drop it a little more at the front, but I want to maintain 100mm clearance.

Sweet thanks for the info. When i looked into coils i originally was gonna go with Stance GR+ - All the american's said they're amazing and ride so much better than the BC's and blah blah blah but i couldn't justify the extra $400 (inc shipping) to get them here when the reveiws i read on the BC BR's were awesome.. Plus the fact that Boostn Imports in Brisbane stocks these for our car and got a great price. I am keen to get them on the car, have no intentions to "slam" it but i will be pushing it in terms of legal height same story as you Mat.

Wasn't sure what size to run up the front, so decided to buy some china 215/35's and see how clearances are then maybe go to something a bit wider in a decedent brand in a month or 2

Also lowered the car about 1cm at the front which is now max low without taking helper springs out

So it is now effectively 19x9-11 with 215/35/19 and 19x10.5-3 with 245/35/19

20130411_134446_zps2fdc84da.jpg

20130411_134453_zps31920668.jpg

20130411_134509_zps8fc72ca0.jpg

really cheap cost $10 a month to sign up, they will hold an item for up to 90 days, then you can consolidate it all into one box as I did above, costs $2 an item then whatever it cost to send the box.

That box cost me like $90 to send, but in comparison I also had 2x sunnies in there that through the online checkout they wanted $100 alone to ship to aus.

All up for 6 items it maybe cost $120-150 for the fright forwarding servies + internal us shipping (this was $10-15 at most an item)

I think I easily saved $200 compared to getting them shipped individually. Only bad thing is the warehouse of the people I used is in CAL which means everything gets a 8% tax (like GST) but only applies if getting sent to california..... Still Ill defiantly use it again in the future.

I am thinking about going back to a K&N dropin filter and a stillen z tube combo, the injen cold air intake makes a bit of noise but it doesn't do much. Plus i am a clean freak it's a bit of a pain polishing the piping lol.. and it'd make changing/cleaning the air filter ALOT easier having it up top rather than removing the bumper to do so..

stock Intake vs Z pipe.

Also removed a resonator at the bottom of the air box so it has a decent induction noise... but not charage with a pod epicness and still look all factory ;)

20130417_110953_zps33ea2e59.jpg

Center caps rocked up so modded the center wheel covers... Wich involeved a lot of drilling and filing as the holesaw had no chance

These turned out a bit to small so going to order some the next size up. Thinking about putting a SSR sticker or something on them as it isnt going to match the alloy of the wheel

20130419_161918_zps851802e1.jpg

Whole car pic with the clear indicators on as well

20130419_161909_zpsd135f818.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...