Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol.

Not sure If my Arse Dyno needs calibrating but the Extractors may well have freed up a little bit of response and midrange. :D

Sweet. SkyHatch aint no Snarling Beast but she's fun.

Got my rego sorted!

The 34 is officially ACT registered!

Man first time rego is expensive, it cost me $800 for 3 months because of stamp duty

yupppp

well done though, will keep an eye out for spots :woot:

Got my rego sorted!

The 34 is officially ACT registered!

Man first time rego is expensive, it cost me $800 for 3 months because of stamp duty

Awesome!!! Well Done Mate.

Stamp duty sux. Unless the car only cost a Grand. :banana:

took off my intake manifold out for painting

was surprised that how clean it was

I think the engine was rebuild at some stage because the bolts on the engine mount has marks of spanners and the other little bits and pieces has marks of spanners

Time for more boost :banana:

Edited by 5hiv

Ooooh Excite! ^^^ :thumbsup:

Via Gumtree Bargains page... :P

$_20.JPG

Chipped N13 ECU installed yesterday. (Tuned for port/polish and Camira cam)

Even with just Pod and Extractors I THINK??? it feels a wee bit Quicker. ;)

A Camira cam? So a toyota cam fits in... cool Japanese.

I wonder... how easy would it be to find one in a wreck, and how cheap it would be.

I spose there may be other issues like lifters and bearings, whats the go, is it a thing people do?

As far as I know the Camira was all GM. When discontinued the model was replaced by a Holden/Toyota hybrid thing though.

There was a model that had the same 1.8l as Rob's pulsar.

Edited by dontyellpl0x

The 18le engine in the N13 is a GM family II engine. The leaded JD Camira 1.8 cam is the cam to have (Not the unleaded 1.8 variety).

Apparently it has the highest lift and longest duration of all the GM family II cams.

Dunno if I'll go there or not but it's interesting nonetheless. :)

I think it's kinda cool that the SkyHatch has a Holden engine and the SkyWagon has the Nissan engine that Holden used. :cool:

A n00b question incase someone knows...

As this ECU was apparently tuned for: Extractors, Freeflowing exhaust, Port n Polish and Cam to make it richer at higher RPM,

Having it installed with Pod and Extractors but stock cam and exhaust, No port n polish etc... Would this likely cause issues?

Should the timing be set differently etc? Would it be likely to run lean or rich? Detonation possible?

Learn me! :D

likely has more timing to compensate for the lost dynamic compression after fitting a larger cam.

but given its a kinder suprise tune id be erring on the side of nothing would have changed more than a couple of percent

Cheers Zeb. Was kinda hoping you would reply. ;)

So what do you reckon? Should I retard timing slightly or just have a play with it and see what works best and avoid audible ping?

I guess the Sensible thing to do would be Dyno/Wideband etc... but meh. Cheap Car is Cheap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...