Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I have the graph but no scanner but will post it up in the next few days.

Got the car back and @ 17psi it made 199.6rwkw.

makes 17psi @ 3500rpm and its an awesome ride

had it 3 days and the plugs fouled so need to replace em.

Mods are:

RB20DET

HKS 2530 + actuator

GTR Injectors

3" Dump and exaust

650x220x90mm hyperflow tube and fin cooler

hks pod

e-boost

Wolf 3d v4

The response it great and it lights the bags nicely, any questions ask away,

Also I want to take this chance to thank the following people for their help along the way.

SteveSST, Meggala, Summoner, Morgs, DoughBoy and SK. Thanks guys.

Evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41660-rb20-hks-2530-results/
Share on other sites

well, at first there was a problem with the coil charge the coils overheated and the car wouldnt start, so they turned the chrge down and now at anything over 17psi the car misfires because the coil isnt charged enough. Looks like i need to gut the cat and sort out that problem. However I am happy and I gotta say the 2530 is a great street turbo, any more would be overkill for the street, well in my car anyway.

Evan

im thinking about goin down the same path as you rb20-calais...xcept i want around 250rwkws is this possible with the turbo and perhaps more boost? i rekcon its awsome to have 17 psi by 3500 good work dude.

Michael

250rwkw not possible with the 2530 (a really big MAYBE if you get REALLY FAT cams and a load of head work but then i suspect you'll lose the trademark response of the turbo!!)

well, i once wanted 250rwkw as well. But its just not smart with an RB20.. for reliability and response I feel this is the best turbo to go with. If you want a lot more power you will need to upgrade the engine eventually unless you want to do things twice. Summoner has done this and had awesome reults.

250rwkw + stock RB20 = playing with fire.

Evan

Sly,

Its awesome holds 17psi all the way with my 10psi hks actuator, also the boost comes on VERY quick and i make boost below 2000rpm and it LOVES to flutter, I am very happy with it. The place who did my car did it all and the settings are 10psi, 15 and 17 ... god love SP3!!!

Thanks again I am more than happy with it!

Also Doughboy the 2530 and actuator are awesome and running like a dream together, I must say SAU has greatly benefited me in sourcing great parts off great people!

Evan

Cool bbenny, I cant wait to see!

I think the reason you made more power is because your af got to 13:1 at the top end and mine were steady 12:1.

Got new BCP6ES plugs and gapped them to 0.8mm and miss is gone but is still missing @ 17psi so i gotta regap to 0.6mm, doh!

Evan

with the 2530 (a really big MAYBE if you get REALLY FAT cams and a load of head work but then i suspect you'll lose the trademark response of the turbo!!)

There will be NO loss of response on the turbo with upgraded camshafts. In fact it does the opposite. Thats a fact jack.

There will be NO loss of response on the turbo with upgraded camshafts. In fact it does the opposite. Thats a fact jack.

in my post i was more referring to the head porting causing loss of response, as how i understand it (btw i am perfectly willing to accept i am wrong) as you port the heads for higher flow, you increase the size of the ports and therefore decrease air velocity at lower rpms which gives less response until the revs get up a bit more.

Rev i am quite happy to be corrected and i never state anything im not 100% sure of as a "fact", (i will always say i think, or i suspect, or as i understand!). Now dont take this personally as im not trying to get up you, but i find some of your responses a bit annoying, even though im pretty sure your not having a go either. I realise that you personally have done a lot of R&D for your 33 and have a lot of info to offer, maybe its just me but i sense a bit of attitude in some of your posts. My name is not jack, it just sounds a bit (ocky to me. cheers buddy :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...