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Oxygen Sensor Dramas - R32 Vs R33 Gtr

drgtr7

By drgtr7,
in Forced Induction Performance

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drgtr7 Rising Star

drgtr7

Posted
Posted

Guys as you know I have an r33 GTR and according to my tuner it's due for a fresh of oxy sensors.

Here's what I need help understanding..

I'm using r32 dumps which have an opening to suit 12mm sensors - I.e NTK OTD2F-1P and or standard.

From my understanding 33 and 32 use different type of sensors - zircona vs Titania . Would it be fine if I was to use Titania oxy sensors on my 33?

Btw I'm using a power fc

Any help appreciated,

Cheers

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Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
Posted

You have two options...

The one mentioned above which I prefer,but takes alot more time to tune the low load/crusing section of the map which results in better fuel consumption if done properly or...

There is "O2 sensor reg." in the ETC. menu of the pfc which allows you to choose between r32 and r33 type O2 sensors.

If I remember correctly, off(+ sign) is r32 type. The info is floating around here....somewhere

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Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
Posted

Found the info. from Paul and its the other way around.....My bad,but as I said i just turn them off :)

apexi's official answer;

There is a difference in the o2 Sensor for these vehicles. (With or without internal register)

After tuning, please check () "O2 Sensor REGISTER" for BNR32, and NOT for BCNR33.

So off (+sign) is for r33 type sensors

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R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

turn off the o2 feedback and leave it off - tune around it

+1

always got better economy with it off and a good tune, and just leaving a dead sensor in there or a bung.

The factory O2 Sensors tend to fail more often in modified examples as well so better off just getting rid of the expense.

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  • 1 year later...
CrimsonLey Rising Star

CrimsonLey

Posted
Posted

Threads like this one are the reason why I keep coming back to SAU.

I have a late model BNCR33 engine in my early edition BNR32.

I installed an AEM wideband and it's constantly reading rich (14+). A couple of weeks ago, I checked the spark plugs and they were very filthy with fuel. I tried my best to clean them but a friend said I should completely replace them. I'm planning on doing that but I want to find out why my GTR is running so rich.

I think I tracked the problem to my O2 sensors via a mechanic that was doing some different work on my car. I have BNR34 VSpec dumps with BCNR33 O2 sensors installed on my BNR32 Skyline. I also have a Mine's ECU that's in need of a tune or change. :-(

Do you guys think that using a stock ECU and/or changing to BNR32 O2 sensors will improve my fuel economy?

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ido09s Mentor

ido09s

Posted
Posted

First step, get rid of the Mines ECU as they arent even worth their value in scrap. A stock ECU is a far better option.

I would suggest a Link or Haltech over the standard ECU as a much better option.

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CrimsonLey Rising Star

CrimsonLey

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the clarification, Hadouken. If the spark plugs are filled with fuel, wouldn't that indicate a "rich" car?

Ido,

I don't have the stock ECU any longer. Is it possible to but a used one from the auctions and still have it work on my car?

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KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the clarification, Hadouken. If the spark plugs are filled with fuel, wouldn't that indicate a "rich" car?

Ido,

I don't have the stock ECU any longer. Is it possible to but a used one from the auctions and still have it work on my car?

Yes you can buy a used one or a PFC... or a plug in Link or Vipec will go in the case inhabited by your Mines chipped ecu.
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CrimsonLey Rising Star

CrimsonLey

Posted
Posted

I think that's what he meant: "your gauge us shit."

Let me ask you guys something, is it possible to go on a 4-5 hour road trip in the current state my car is in? I have to drop off my vehicle at a friends place that's quite far

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Badgaz Experienced

Badgaz

Posted
Posted

the wide band sensors can crap out too not just the gauge. hard call there....if you are worried i'd say stay off boost and you should be ok....but in the end its up to you. I'd re-check your afr's if you can...seems weird you'd be 14's and have fouling plugs...check your breathers and make sure your intake isn't all gummed up with oil vapour residue etc.

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Badgaz Experienced

Badgaz

Posted
Posted

it should be pretty obvious when they don't work....the one we were using that was faulty would only read down to 11's before giving no reading.... you should be running around the low 12's to low 11's on boost....strangely your car is quite like my wife's car...bnr32 with bcnr33 motor.

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nicksamaniac Collaborator

nicksamaniac

Posted
Posted

Just to confirm my own thoughts? Doesn't the o2 sensor only work during lean cruise?

I thought the ecu only uses it at lean cruise (closed loop monitoring) where it looks for the rich or lean side of lambda.

that's why it flicks around 14.5-15.5-ish back and forth as it continually looks for and aims for lambda 1.

Then when you load the engine from cruise to accelerate it will give a solid afr and richen the more load increases.

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