Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys as you know I have an r33 GTR and according to my tuner it's due for a fresh of oxy sensors.

Here's what I need help understanding..

I'm using r32 dumps which have an opening to suit 12mm sensors - I.e NTK OTD2F-1P and or standard.

From my understanding 33 and 32 use different type of sensors - zircona vs Titania . Would it be fine if I was to use Titania oxy sensors on my 33?

Btw I'm using a power fc

Any help appreciated,

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417278-oxygen-sensor-dramas-r32-vs-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

You have two options...

The one mentioned above which I prefer,but takes alot more time to tune the low load/crusing section of the map which results in better fuel consumption if done properly or...

There is "O2 sensor reg." in the ETC. menu of the pfc which allows you to choose between r32 and r33 type O2 sensors.

If I remember correctly, off(+ sign) is r32 type. The info is floating around here....somewhere

Found the info. from Paul and its the other way around.....My bad,but as I said i just turn them off :)

apexi's official answer;

There is a difference in the o2 Sensor for these vehicles. (With or without internal register)

After tuning, please check () "O2 Sensor REGISTER" for BNR32, and NOT for BCNR33.

So off (+sign) is for r33 type sensors

turn off the o2 feedback and leave it off - tune around it

+1

always got better economy with it off and a good tune, and just leaving a dead sensor in there or a bung.

The factory O2 Sensors tend to fail more often in modified examples as well so better off just getting rid of the expense.

  • 1 year later...

Threads like this one are the reason why I keep coming back to SAU.

I have a late model BNCR33 engine in my early edition BNR32.

I installed an AEM wideband and it's constantly reading rich (14+). A couple of weeks ago, I checked the spark plugs and they were very filthy with fuel. I tried my best to clean them but a friend said I should completely replace them. I'm planning on doing that but I want to find out why my GTR is running so rich.

I think I tracked the problem to my O2 sensors via a mechanic that was doing some different work on my car. I have BNR34 VSpec dumps with BCNR33 O2 sensors installed on my BNR32 Skyline. I also have a Mine's ECU that's in need of a tune or change. :-(

Do you guys think that using a stock ECU and/or changing to BNR32 O2 sensors will improve my fuel economy?

Thanks for the clarification, Hadouken. If the spark plugs are filled with fuel, wouldn't that indicate a "rich" car?

Ido,

I don't have the stock ECU any longer. Is it possible to but a used one from the auctions and still have it work on my car?

Thanks for the clarification, Hadouken. If the spark plugs are filled with fuel, wouldn't that indicate a "rich" car?

Ido,

I don't have the stock ECU any longer. Is it possible to but a used one from the auctions and still have it work on my car?

Yes you can buy a used one or a PFC... or a plug in Link or Vipec will go in the case inhabited by your Mines chipped ecu.

I think that's what he meant: "your gauge us shit."

Let me ask you guys something, is it possible to go on a 4-5 hour road trip in the current state my car is in? I have to drop off my vehicle at a friends place that's quite far

the wide band sensors can crap out too not just the gauge. hard call there....if you are worried i'd say stay off boost and you should be ok....but in the end its up to you. I'd re-check your afr's if you can...seems weird you'd be 14's and have fouling plugs...check your breathers and make sure your intake isn't all gummed up with oil vapour residue etc.

it should be pretty obvious when they don't work....the one we were using that was faulty would only read down to 11's before giving no reading.... you should be running around the low 12's to low 11's on boost....strangely your car is quite like my wife's car...bnr32 with bcnr33 motor.

Just to confirm my own thoughts? Doesn't the o2 sensor only work during lean cruise?

I thought the ecu only uses it at lean cruise (closed loop monitoring) where it looks for the rich or lean side of lambda.

that's why it flicks around 14.5-15.5-ish back and forth as it continually looks for and aims for lambda 1.

Then when you load the engine from cruise to accelerate it will give a solid afr and richen the more load increases.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...