Jump to content
SAU Community

For Those Running Nismo Coppermix Twin.....

Goombeh
 Share

Recommended Posts

Goombeh Collaborator

Goombeh

Posted
Posted

So I've recently had my Nismo Coppermix Twin plate installed in the GTR and I'd read so much about them being very drivable and stock like.

Now I've only driven maybe 50kms so may be too early and may need bedding in, but immediate impressions are that it is very... very light. Doesn't feel like it will hold power, almost feel like I need to take the booster off to get more feel. But it's very quiet and seems very strong. It's very quiet in neutral or with clutch dissengaged.

Now my question is for those who run one, is it normal for it to cause some driveline judder on gradual take up? My searches are suggesting no, however I have read that this is commonplace on twins. I can drive around it of course by taking it up with more revs, but wondering if I should be looking into replacing gearbox or engine mounts or if this may be considered normal. My old Clutch had a very slight judder only when cold.

What do you think?.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

That's what makes the Nismo Coppermix so driveable. It's not filthy heavy like a OS twin plate for example which over time is like kicking a bag of sand over and over.

The first 500-1,000kms it will be a little bitey, it will settle down though. So give it a little while before worrying about minor shudder.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

it says that these clutches make noise and vibrations

Yeah just so that when it does make the slightest noise (and it literally is non-existent) - people dont come back and complain.

As the plates get lower/wear they will get noisier, just how it goes.

Iron Chef Grand Master

Iron Chef

Posted
Posted (edited)

My only complaints are it's a bit rattly on idle in neutral (clutch out) because of the flywheel, and slips a bit when cold, aside from that it's brilliant, very light to use and bites hard on high RPM take-offs...

Edited by Iron Chef
LotusGTR Veteran

LotusGTR

Posted
Posted

I've got one and I could not fault it in any way. When it was installed it was very 'bitey' (probably me just getting used to a twin) but I did get it adjusted (dunno what was done) and it was so much easier to use. No noises what so ever. Not heavy. Very user friendly. No driveline shudder under any circumstances.

Have only launched in 2WD mode but it was a 2nd gear start from standstill. No dramas and was really easy to modulate.

Ace clutch. Should be for the money.

nomnomv8 Rising Star

nomnomv8

Posted
Posted

Ive got the Coppermix Twin C-spec in mine and have nothing but praise for it. By far the easiest twin plate I have ever driven and at the same time has a real good bite to it. A few of the guys have mentioned noise issues - you can hear it on the odd occassion in neutral however its pretty subtle and honestly nothing to lose sleep over.

Give it about 500km or so of driving (start/stop as opposed to highway kms) before you give it a launch, I guarantee you it will definately "hold the power" ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...