Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RRob: Yeh GQs had the RB standard, Ive got the GU 2.8 and its rubbish. Got to about 90 tops pullin a charade on a car trailer . How did you mod the head to fit on the 30 block, something about oil lines to vvt pully and taping a tread for the timing belt adjuster. I want to run a GT35 on my RB30/25 with some head work , hoping for 300rwhp plus on 35s.

Edited by Hterrygqt
  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

As Steve200b said, if you want to do it legally, it's going to cost you an arm and a leg.

Edited by Cowboy1600

The patrol rb30 has a higher comp ratio than r31 or vl motors. You don't need to go down the twin cam road if your not chasing huge power. Second gear skids with 35's on the road is easy for a single cam if you do it right

RIPS supplied RB30 is pretty hard to beat on price unless you just want to build a slapper.

A smaller turbo than a GT35 would be a better choice based on what you want to achieve.

Ahem.... Like a cheap 3082 :P

http://www.ripsltd.com/

TC vs SC isn't really the determining factor with torque. Capacity, stroke and turbo have a far greater effect. Forget the TC vs SC.

NB: RIPS is in NZ so factor in a few hundred to a thousand or so for shipping. Still probably the best way to go.

Cheers mate just sent them a email then. Iam leaning towards a RB30et now for price and they seem to have some good figures , ill see wat RIPS says and make a decition then, any other RB engine builders you know of?

Gtsboy - Do you know anything about patrols, diesels or even anything to do with rebuilds and conversions??. Ive said 1000 times the 2.8 diesel in my patrol is a piece of shit, its about 60hp. These engines arent reliable and more boost and lpg will make it worse. Its not always about how much money it will cost. A RB30 will out proform and is much more reliable, and tge 2.8 wouldnt be much better on fuel. Dont just say boost and lpg the 2.8 doesnt need a hand the the scrap heap mate.

RD28T is about 120 HP. Also about 250 Nm. Not heaps of torque. But add some boost and some LPG and you will go well over 300 Nm and from low rpm.

I think you will find that I did my first rebuild of a diesel engine (a Mercedes 240D engine, that REALLY had only about 60 HP) back in the mid 1980s. I think you will find that I have personally done several engine conversions. I think you will find that I have done several rebuilds. I think you will find that I know what I'm talking about, and would choose a turbo diesel over a revvy petrol 6 in a big 4WD every time and I f**king hate turbo diesels.

LPG fumigation is a proven and excellent method of making turbo diesels go better, especially on the old, crude ones like your RD.

I gave you sound advice. Not my fault if you don't want to hear it. Sorry about f**king with you in your other thread. It was too funny and I couldn't help myself.

Mate it may be 120hp new and at the flywheel, its now a 230,000km old engine and power at the wheels is wat people want to know. The thread is about choosing the right engine from the 3 options ive given, not a open thread on wats the sensible option or go put a v8 in it.

Also you must not know how to read, I DONT WANT THE RD28 , its a shit motor and added boost and lpg are going to f*ck it even quicker,

The options were RB30/25, RB30et or RB25det, how is it hard to choose from them options????

I want to run a GT35 on my RB30/25 with some head work , hoping for 300rwhp plus on 35s.

Go build the 2530 then, why are you still here asking for advice when you have clearly already made up your mind and don't want advice?

I'm with rolls buy a new truck..old fourbys are just deathtrap money pits all over...

220nm is rubbish..my bt50 puts out over 400nm and its just a 2.5lt..so either put money towards a newer generation of diesel.....or for 5 grand you could by a patrol with an rb30 already in it and save the headache, as a bonus you will then have a pile of spares any old patrol owner will inevitably need...otherwise must stick a plain old rb30 in it so you don't waste any more money ..

5k for the 25/30 build is bugger all since some people spend 10k plus on v8s and the like, my patrol is a 1999 model with a 2.8ltr. I agree 220nm is nothing compaired to moddern diesels thats the reason i want to dump the 2.8 and fit a custom 25/30, these engines are good standard but with some work good really good, Iam not after a another diesel/tourer because i have a D40 navara already. This is a project so even if it uses more fuel its just a fun truck . The RB30/25 is a good engine because using the 30 block gives a decent anount of torque. It will out preform the 2.8 in both power and torque wen matched with the right bolt ons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...