Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Just wanted to see if anyone else with a v35 coupe (mines 2004) experience problems with their air con?

Mine seems to work fine most of the times i use it whether it be on a 20 degree day or 28 degrees but it seems to stop working anything above 30 degrees?

Like it would start working for a while and then blow out hot air, and it seems to be more frequent when I come to a stop? it seems like it works then stops to recharge itself and then blow cold air again after maybe 10 mins or so?

Please advise what the problem could be? or is it cause its just too hot that the aircon stops running, that and cause its a black car? LOL annoying when im sitting in the car melting....

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420204-air-conditioning-issues/
Share on other sites

Sounds like one of both of your thermo fans is not working (or not working properly). I have a black 03 coupe and over 35 degrees the a/c will click off if I sit around idling for 10 minutes or more, but it is fine no matter what length of time I idle under 35 degrees. If your thermos are working, perhaps try getting some compressed air onto you radiator and your a/c radiator - the a/c radiator particularly could be full of bugs or dirt, and is not working effectively. Then get your gas checked - there is every chance your gas is low, thus reducing the effifiency of your a/c and making it work too hard - hence shutting off due to heat earlier than usual.

If it is stinking hot and I am planning on idling for an extended period (or the car is really hot), I will often pop the bonnet and pour/spray water out of a water bottle onto the a/c radiator - makes it work 100% better for a short period of time - the air comes out ICY.

^^ what he said..

Sounds like the condensor isn't getting rid of the heat and the AC system is tripping off on high pressure. As Andrew said.. check thermo fans first.. then check the front of the condensor for bugs/leaves/sticks/etc..

The system won't work as well at idle, and the air probably warms up a little between the evaporator and the outlet.. the temp sensor, post evaporator on my old J30 Maxima used to hit 4 deg.

About 10+ years back I had a car with air-con but without climate control. When I got the air-con re-gassed, the shop would test it with the windows closed and on re-circulate, and the temp coming out of the vents would drop to 4 deg. Things have definitely changed over the years...

The V35 also uses a variable displacement compressor, so it can adjust the cooling power based on requirements. the older style compressors were just on or off.. full cooling power, or none at all, even if they had climate control.

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys i encountered a major issue yesterday i was driving the v35 coupe in 30 degree temperatures with the a/c on full blast and then o noticed smoke coming from the front right hand side of the engine bay and the temp gauge was at HIGH i opemd the bonnet and noticed the coolant fluid was bubbling.... could you please advise what the problem could be, i havent had the chance to take it to the mechanic as yet.... hope its an easy fix this is a result of the above issue i had previously with the ac thanks

I think coolant was changed roughly 10k ago? But through reserch there seems to be afew issuesthat could be the cause

Thermostat blocked? Fan clutch? Air bubbles? Fan? Condenser clogged i really want to know what the issue is so i can try amd fix it first rathen thn take it straight to the garage

It is very hard to flush the coolant system, unless you know where the drain bung for the block is located. The thermostat isn't hard to remove and test, mind you the kettle doesn't get the water hot enough, you would need to stick it in a pot on the stove.

I would try a thorough system bleed, topping up the rear bleed point (heater pipe near the firewall) when cold, you may need to do it a few mornings to get all the air out. Beware, the bleed point is a plastic Philips head, and is very easy to strip.

Not without the car here. If you want the system bled properly, see if Craig (Jetwreck) can help. Otherwise go to the mechanic, perhaps get him to do a carbon test on the radiator bubbles just to rule out the head gasket while you are there.

These engines are quite hard to bleed, most mechanics won't do it right. It can take a few days (hot/cold cycles and driving) to get all the air out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
×
×
  • Create New...