Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I joined the Skyline community not long ago getting my

Silver Series 2 R33 GTS-T Manual with 240rwkw.

But my finances have improved and i'm contemplating upgrading to a GTR if I can sell this for a happy price.

Mods off the top of my head:

  • Full exhaust (Not sure on the size as it's metric JDM but it's big and unrestricted and sounds amazing)
  • Upgraded walbro fuel pump
  • Rear strut bar
  • Sound system with touch screen
  • 18" DTM Rush rims
  • Slotted rotors front and rear
  • Heavy duty clutch
  • Splitfire coil packs
  • GCG Highflow turbo
  • Engine bay strut brace
  • FMIC

240rwkw

Racepace tuned

Doesn't have any major bad points that I can think of except the front bar has a scrape that I bought it with. The guy who I bought it off just had the front bar resprayed a few days later somebody in a carpark scraped him. I didn't bother fixing it just yet as i'm focused on performance currently and it's not that bad. You could really just put a JDM sticker over it and forget it's there. The quote to get it fixed was $200.

With regards to price i'm not sure what the market is doing currently so i'm just taking offers and if I get one I think is good enough i'll sell and upgrade. PM or post offers I don't mind.

Sorry it's dirty in a bunch of the pictures, the only ones I have access to at the second. Oh and I obviously had to get RWC when i bought it just a couple of months ago so shouldn't be any costs there.

zxa4k7.jpg

vxddfp.jpg

2vt4d4j.jpg

33nceox.jpg

2qn8aki.jpg

25ktxrk.jpg

2zp35up.jpg

Edited by jukic.j

What's wrong with seeing my rego? You'd see it if you drove past me on the street?

I didn't want to post a price because I just wanted offers but I think the rules say I have to put one so i'll make it a high one and people can lowball me. $15,000! Mwahaha (negotiable)

Why can't I edit my own posts... that's retarded...

Seeing as I can't edit my own posts to put it in the original post:

  • 160kkm
  • ECU is an Apexi Power FC
  • Rego runs out late this year
  • Will be easy to get a RWC and the price will be adjusted depending on whether you want one or not
  • Located in Balwyn North near Eastern freeway and Doncaster Rd intersection

Got messaged asking for more pictures etc so I took a video, uploading now.

Edited by jukic.j

jukic. j,

Best of luck with the sale mate, I think that is car looks clean and would suit somebody who is looking to buy a r33 with decent mods, rims look great.

However, I wonder why you need guidance on the sale price?

I've been watching the sale section of skylineau for the last few months and noticed how active you have been! I can you remember that you posted on a r33 GTR for sale thread not so long ago clearing stating that we are currently at a point in time which is considered a 'buyers market'? Within that post you provided evidence for this stating that you recently bought your 240rwkw r33 gts-t for $8000.

I wonder, is this the same car you bought not so long ago? If it happens to be the same one (and I could be mistaken if you have two r33's with 240rwkw) then shouldn't you as a member of the skyline community have a clear understanding of the market, the value of the car?

Cheers!

Having had a quick ride in the car not to log ago I can say this runs VERY well! Goes hard, and very good condition!

Goodluck with the sale mate :D

jukic. j,

Best of luck with the sale mate, I think that is car looks clean and would suit somebody who is looking to buy a r33 with decent mods, rims look great.

However, I wonder why you need guidance on the sale price?

I've been watching the sale section of skylineau for the last few months and noticed how active you have been! I can you remember that you posted on a r33 GTR for sale thread not so long ago clearing stating that we are currently at a point in time which is considered a 'buyers market'? Within that post you provided evidence for this stating that you recently bought your 240rwkw r33 gts-t for $8000.

I wonder, is this the same car you bought not so long ago? If it happens to be the same one (and I could be mistaken if you have two r33's with 240rwkw) then shouldn't you as a member of the skyline community have a clear understanding of the market, the value of the car?

Cheers!

Thanks Findlay :) yeah i'm very happy with her i'm just at a crossroads of doing a bunch of mods to her and getting her on E85 or upgrading to a GTR.

With regards to price I study economics so I personally don't believe in set prices. I don't want to scare anyone away with a high price thinking it's not negotiable or offer to low initially and short change myself. I let the market (the buyers) show me what the car is worth today.

And yes it is indeed the same car but unfortunately I wasn't able to snap it up for $8k due to significant costs to get a RWC with the mods. As that has now been sorted recently she is in a good position to re-sell easily. I'm no longer a buyer so I don't dictate how much the car is worth :P

Having had a quick ride in the car not to log ago I can say this runs VERY well! Goes hard, and very good condition!

Goodluck with the sale mate :D

Thanks for the comments man, pity we didn't get to take her onto the freeway :)

Good luck with that intercooler piping, a hole cute for the piping with an airbag is a big no no in Vic.

Yeh it hasn't been an issue for the 2 owners before me or myself. I wanted it fixed originally before sale but when I got the car I really didn't see the need. If you want to fix it you just need to get some new intercooler piping.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...