Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes light load and cruise is all still closed loop - which should be great for fuel economy.

And no I havn't tuned and RX7 injectors in an RB20 - might take a bit of playing around with. There's usually two values that you have to play with in order to get the right balance. With unusal injectors it might take a bit more time. I will have a look around and get back to you tho.

  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well well.

That was all very interesting.

It was over six months ago when i started the thread, i went the wolf and had minimal problems that a good tune did not fix.

I did find that a number of tuners did not like them or would tune reluctantly, why this attitude , i shall leave to your imagination.

I am now doing a major up grade to my GTR and wondering if i should stay with the wolf or go the Apexi D- jetro, mainly going to drag the car but will occasionally be on the street.

Any experiences with the D- Jetro any one.

Ken you mentioned Anthony is running one , any info ?

You would have to ask Ant who is now at X Speed.

If the Wolf gave you no problems and you are happy with the tuner, then stick with it.

There must be a reason why Ant pulled the Wolf out but as I said, you will have to ask him :mad:

Cheers

Ken

Yes light load and cruise is all still closed loop - which should be great for fuel economy.  And no I havn't tuned and RX7 injectors in an RB20 - might take a bit of playing around with.  There's usually two values that you have to play with in order to get the right balance.

Hi Rob, I would be interested in your software when avaialable as I have an AUTO and no desire to drive to see Martin Donnon in Adelaide from Melb again when I need a tune.

Not that he did not do an extraordinary job on my std rechipped computer.

Drove home at twice the velocity at half the fuel cost from the drive over.

After returning I fitted the RX7 Injectors as Turbine has noted ( OLD Man !?;-)

but compensated by fully modifying the AFM and air box sucessfully.

AFM Mod here afm_9_small.jpg

Ok !

have been talking to a reputable tuner who is of the oppinion that the Motec is the only chioce for reliability performance .

$5 to $6k is a lot of money for an ECU. i do not believe he is bias in respect to just wanting to create a sale , unlike most.

So what is the oppinion out there from the people that have used the different Ecu available.

Sydney Kid your injection was good. I am not using AFM so the PFC is out.This is why i raised the question on the D Jetro in a later thread.

Do you pay top dollar for the Motec, or is there a next best but not nessarily the next expensive.

I will say that money is not the issue here, rather , value for money!

My application is going to be mainly drags but still streetable , out of city.

I've changed my mind on Microtech after it blew up a few times - PFC is the only way to go in a Skyline.

I have had Stock ECU, EMS Stinger, Microtech and PFC - The PFC has been the most reliable and most drivable. With the Micrtech and a highly modded R33 GTS-t - the tuner took quite a while to get it right - With the PFC and Datalogit - Couple of hours.

Now I have a 32 though - I think I will look at ar re-map (if I modify the car , which I won't)

Ok !

have been talking to a reputable tuner who is of the oppinion that the Motec is the only chioce for reliability performance .

$5 to $6k is a lot of money for an ECU. i do not believe he is bias in respect to just wanting to create a sale , unlike most.

So what is the oppinion out there from the people that have used the different Ecu available.

Sydney Kid your injection was good. I am not using AFM so the PFC is out.This is why i raised the question on the D Jetro in a later thread.

Do you pay top dollar for the Motec, or is there a next best but not nessarily the next expensive.

I will say that money is not the issue here, rather , value for money!

My application is going to be mainly drags but still streetable , out  of city.

Maybe you could investigate using an Autronic. As i understand (and im not an expert), they are quite similar to Motec and less expensive. Also, the Autronic (SM2) comes with traction and launch control which could be useful for drags. Also, i dont think you have to pay extra for these goodies, as you do with the Motec.

One I dont think anybody has metioned is Haltec, ive got one and I think its great. From what Ive gathered not alot of people use them, anybody know why this is??

I have an E11v2 in my RB30DET and can't rave enough about it. It'll do everything a PowerFC can apart from knock sensing but it also has a heap of extra analogue/digital inputs and outputs, plus data logging, PID loop idle control, etc.

I'd guess the main reason they are not used in skylines is because they are not plug-in and a PFC is tried and proven.

I have an E11v2 in my RB30DET and can't rave enough about it. It'll do everything a PowerFC can apart from knock sensing but it also has a heap of extra analogue/digital inputs and outputs, plus data logging, PID loop idle control, etc.  

I'd guess the main reason they are not used in skylines is because they are not plug-in and a PFC is tried and proven.

I also have the E11v2 and im the same I think its great! Value for money is great and Haltech DO have a plug-in opition now as I have one. All you have to do is wire up the MAP sensor and Air Temp senor. They used to be done by a company called JEM but Haltech have now bought him out and selling em' thereselfs.

So for a bit over $2k you can have the whole setup! and Haltech are using the same plugs as Motech and im fairly sure you can change a few wires in the plugin loom and plug a Motec to it (if that makes sence :confused: )

Autronic , any experiences from people that have tuned them .

Starting to look into the Apexi Pro FC now as well , one has to get it right as there are so many ECU's out there, but which is the right one for me !?

Autronic , any experiences from people that have tuned them .

Autronic, great ECU, had 8 of them so far on the race BM's and Commondoors. Arguably better than Motec at a lower price. Direct interface to the Autronic CDI which is much cheaper that the Motec equivalent. Then use the Autronic CDI to drive the Mercury outboard CDI coils. Great set up, lots of options with datalogging and effective self tune via the Autronic A/F ratio meter and F&W lambda sensor.

Only downside is they have to be set up from scratch, all sensors have to be calibrated, injectors, fuel pump etc etc. They don't like the standard wiring harnes, so some rewiring required. Cold start and run, hot start, warm up, idle, aircon, power steering, electrical load compensation etc etc all have to be tuned. Power tuning is simple, but it may take a week to tune cold start and run as it can only be done once per day. If done in summer, may have to be redone in winter or vice versa. All the stuff that makes a car "nice" to drive takes a long time to tune. I have seen an Autronic equiped Skyline go back for tuning 6 times and that was after it had been there for a week.

That is where the Power FC is hard to beat, all that hugely time consuming (and expensive by the hour) stuff is already done.:)

Ah, the Autronic!

Price is about half that of a motec I believe.

The traction control works off wheel speed sensors. If it sees rear wheel speed faster that front wheels, what it does is turn off injectors for an instant.

The launch control I'll have to look into. But it has an anti-lag option (turbo lag that is), which is a bit dangerous in a street car.

I have 2 cars setup with an SMC version of Autronic. 1 is a 412ci AMC V8, uses a GM 4-71 supercharger. The other is my Nissan engined Doge Ute racer (RB20DE+T). The same ECU runs these cars, you just plug it in with a new setup through the software.

So the cost for the 2 cars would be around 4-5K...... act like a shopaholic and shop around on the parts. Thats just to run the system.

I think the AUtronic is great for a race car, it sequentially drives injectors, can be trimmed on each cylinder and has auxillery outputs for extra devices and it's resolution is very fine, something like 512 programmable sites for fuel and ignition alone.

I wouldn't have traction control on a drag car, just run bigger rear tyres.

Whatever you decide to get, it will be fine just depends on how serious you are about horsepower per dollar.

Autronic, great ECU, had 8 of them so far on the race BM's and Commondoors.  Arguably better than Motec at a lower price.  Direct interface to the Autronic CDI which is much cheaper that the Motec equivalent.  Then use the Autronic CDI to drive the Mercury outboard CDI coils.  Great set up, lots of options with datalogging and effective self tune via the Autronic A/F ratio meter and F&W lambda sensor.

Only downside is they have to be set up from scratch, all sensors have to be calibrated, injectors, fuel pump etc etc. They don't like the standard wiring harnes, so some rewiring required.  Cold start and run, hot start, warm up, idle, aircon, power steering, electrical load compensation etc etc all have to be tuned.   Power tuning is simple, but it may take a week to tune cold start and run as it can only be done once per day.  If done in summer, may have to be redone in winter or vice versa.  All the stuff that makes a car "nice" to drive takes a long time to tune.  I have seen an Autronic equiped Skyline go back for tuning 6 times and that was after it had been there for a week.

That is where the Power FC is hard to beat, all that hugely time consuming (and expensive by the hour) stuff is already done.:)

This is true. I'm yet to find someone willing to spend the time to tune my cars. Might be better to tune myself if someone will let me have thier dyno for a week.

From what i was told today Ants GTR running Wolf3d had afew issues he couldnt sort out, so he switched to pfc d-jetro, supposedly it is the reason it now has 800hp instead of 680 odd. This was at xspeed who suggested i switch from wolf to pfc d-jetro on my s14 as im havving issues with it atm. Ant thought that it would give a better tune and start much better, as mine is a dog to start and idle with a/c + fan on etc. I dont know if i want to fork out near on $2k for another computer when i already have 1. I havent heard experiance's from many people running d-jetro yet and am interested to see if it will be worthwhile on a motor thats already done 178000kms.

Adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...