Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lets call it $14500ono open to offers to sell as is or willing to sepearte if there is enough interest..

- car just needs a turbo and pipe work to be running again! 99% complete! Then some paint and she will be sweet

- Plenty of serious parts



Engine

RB25 series 2 motor (88,000Kms)

Plazmaman Plenum

Plazmaman throttle body

Steam pipe high mount manifold

Splitfire coilpacks

Big Injectors

BMI fuel Rail

Front Mount

52mm Radiator

Oil Cooler and relocation Kit

Tial 44mm External Gate

r33 clutch master

3.5inch kakimoto exhaust

Custom Front/Dump pipe

Greddy Swirl Pot

Fuel Pressure Regulator with Gauge

Big lift Pump (unknown brand)

2x 044 bosch



Interior

Profec B Spec 2 controller

Adaptronic computer

ARK turbo timer

Bride door trims

Bride Gias II Seats

Custom Seat Rails

Prosport Boost Gauge

Prosport EGT Gauge

Prosport Oil Temp Gauge

Prosport Oil Press Gauge

Prosport Water Temp Gauge

Pioneer MVH-8250BT head unit

6x9 in rear

Custom parcel shelf

6inch in the doors

Cusco Half cage


Suspension/Driveline

R33 LCA's

ISC N1 coilovers

Adjustable rear camber arms

Bolt in half cage

metal pinapples

mini spool

Exedy 100kg heavy duty clutch

Strut Braces front and rear

Hicas Removed completely (all lines)

R33 power steering pump

Hicas Lock bar in rear


Wheels/Tyres/Brakes

Meister S1R (brand new)

Front

18x9.5 -30

Slotted Rotors

Rear

18x11.5 -47

315/30 semi slicks


Body

CUSTOM CUSTOM CUSTOM

Spared no expenses on guards

Custom moulded to car

Custom inner arches in rear

Veilside Front Guards

Veilside Rear Guards

veilside Side Skirts

Carbon exhaust shield (ultra rare)

=======================================================

Im sure i have missed plenty of parts details

car is located on Central Coast NSW

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420462-eoi-widebody-r32-for-sale-or-strip/
Share on other sites

Does it come with standard replacement parts ? What about turbo side ?

What does that price exactly include?

bare motor, if you want the plazmaman plenum etc we can work out a price! im open to offers

Engine

RB25 series 2 motor (88,000Kms)
$1000

Plazmaman Plenum
$600

Plazmaman throttle body
$60

Steam pipe high mount manifold
$400

BMI fuel Rail
$125

52mm Radiator
$125

Oil Cooler and relocation Kit
$250

Tial MVR 44mm External Gate
$350

Greddy Swirl Pot
$70

Fuel Pressure Regulator with Gauge
$50

2x 044 bosch

$180ea

===========================

Interior

Profec B Spec 2 controller
$250

Adaptronic computer with plugin harness

$850


ARK turbo timer
$130

Bride door trims
$250

Bride Gias II Seats
Custom Seat Rails

$1000


Prosport Boost Gauge
Prosport EGT Gauge
Prosport Oil Temp Gauge
Prosport Oil Press Gauge
Prosport Water Temp Gauge
$550 set


Cusco Half cage

$600

=================================

Suspension/Driveline

ISC N1 coilovers

$600

mini spool

$450 (in housing)

R33 power steering pump
$100

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...