Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just wondering if you can help me out. I have an r 33 gtr full weight and getting an engine done which should be pushing 350+kws. Want to do so track days and throw the car around a bit at some events. I have standard brakes that are due for rotors and pads shortly. I have been researching for months and totally confused. I see that many have trialed a massive amount of different setups. So my question is what is the best front brakes I can fit in my 17 inch LMGT1s with a street track tyre like Achilles 123.

Options would be a larger rotor with compact calipers or larger caliper with a smaller rotor. Are there much differences in performance with lets say a nascar 4 pot brembo and a 6 pot other brand caliper. What about the F50s are they still a great improvement over the standards with great rotor pad combo. I know that there is a great group buy on the d2s but they are quite bulky and am very restricted on their rotor size.


So in short is there a compact caliper that can be used under my 17s that will out perform or equal the current crop of 6 and 8 pot entry level options or other 6 pot calipers. I would rather go the largest rotor I can because of the the inherent cooling advantages with the best compact caliper i can afford.


Thanks and i would appreciate your assistance.

Edited by XGTRX
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420899-r33-gtr-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

I've been using Alcon big brake kit 343 mm rotors http://www.jdl-brakes.com/alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-6-pot-o343x32-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html with low offset 17" Enkei wheels, for two years. They perform very well on track, with yellow Pagid pads, much better than AP kit that I had on R32. No BIAS issue with stock rear calipers and DBA rotors. I'm going to sell my front kit very soon, and change for Alcon 365 mm kit with 350 mm rears http://www.jdl-brakes.com/special-offer-alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-and-rear-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html but need to find correct wheels first.

  • 4 months later...

So now I have reached a point where I need to make a decision.

I have LMGT1s 17s and I need to get new rotors and pads.

Car makes about 350 and want to throw it around a track and is regularly driven.

Looked at the UAS upgrade kit with some braided lines and consists of this:

Quote:

UAS 343MM BIG BRAKE KIT FOR NISSAN SKYLINE GTR

KIT INCLUDES:

343MM SLOTTED TWO PIECE ALLOY ROTORS

HATS

BILLET ALLOY CALIPER ADAPTERS TO SUIT FACTORY CALIPERS

CAP BOLTS

CUSTOM FERODO 2500 PADS

SUITABLE FOR R32 / R33 & R34 GTR

Then I see this on eBay

Quote:

Up for sale is a set of Brembo F40 calipers that was bolted to a Nissan R34 Skyline.

These brakes were purchased secondhand, and since the purchase, they have had a seal kit put in them and have been powder coated gloss black. Since the work has been done, these brakes have not been used whilst the vehicle has been driven as they are off an unfinished project car. The whole kit comes with 343x32mm RDD Rotors, RDD alloy radial mounts, endless blue pads and braided lines.

Price difference is no big deal but I am just thinking long-term.

So will I get a noticeable advantage with selecting the f40s in performance or durability or is the standard caliper UAS upgrade enough for my application.

Love my 17s so bigger size is not an option. I just want to do this once and not regret my choice.

Thanks

Well for what it is worth I am running the F40's on a GTR with the DS2500 pads. They work pretty well, but I did also get the Brembo rears and a V spec master cylinder to go with the callipers.

343 is an option. Project Mu are another brand of rotor than can be bought in that size. Basically you can run any rotor you like as long as the adalptor lines with the "offset" on the hat/rotor. They may not all be the same on the aftermarket rotors, so be aware. Also the bolt size will be wrong on the adaptors as they are off a 34 so you will need to get some more made up - not too hard to do.

The good thing about hte F40 is:
The pad area is larger than the GTR Brembo calliper.

The piston area is the same.

The DS2500 pad is not custom. It is the same part number as used on the AU Falcons.

So bias is not changed on a 324 rotor from standard and only slightly on a 343.

So the adaptors mounting holes need to be opened up for the 33.

Did you get any real advantages with the F40s as in less pad and rotor changes, less fading/heat issues on the track?

The other way around. The R34 uses 14mm (I think) bolts to the 32's 12mm's. So the holes in the adaptors will be for 14mm hence too big. You can either modify the hub, sleeve the adaptor or make new ones.

Well a bigger pad gets a little less temperature and cools a little better. There is not alot in it but everything helps.

I went from the Sumitomo package to the F40. Not a massive difference in the performance but feel and longevity were heaps better. The cooler you can keep pads/rotors the cheaper they are to run. The bigger they are the cooler they run.

There are a bunch of cheapo China options if you want to go in that direction.

Edited by djr81

I got the chinese option - 330x32mm 8 pot G4s after reading some of track ppl here saying they're a good thing. Very happy with them. IIRC Nismoids group buy is still on....

What's your experience with them. What brakes did you come from?

I bought my G4's off a mate who ran them for roughly 3 years racing in our super series here in tas, in that time the car was running from 260kw odd up to 450kw plus, held up amazingly well only one rotor replacement in that time and at the very end as they have done one days work or less then I bought them. I wouldn't run g4 coilovers or probably anything else they sell but their brakes ARE proven. There are heap of pads that will fit them too as they take a AP size pad.

Edited by Mr. Untouchable

Guys, you should to seriously consider JDL offer for Alcons. Top quality kit, for less than you can get locally. Links below ( second link )

I've been using Alcon big brake kit 343 mm rotors http://www.jdl-brakes.com/alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-6-pot-o343x32-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html with low offset 17" Enkei wheels, for two years. They perform very well on track, with yellow Pagid pads, much better than AP kit that I had on R32. No BIAS issue with stock rear calipers and DBA rotors. I'm going to sell my front kit very soon, and change for Alcon 365 mm kit with 350 mm rears http://www.jdl-brakes.com/special-offer-alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-and-rear-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html but need to find correct wheels first.

What's your experience with them. What brakes did you come from?

Used them at Wakefield, Eastern Creek and Marulan with both EBC yellows and QFM A1RMs, and all seemed to work well, but im no expert. I also have the UAS air deflectors that go on the radius rods.

Before i got them i had the UAS 327mm kit which used DBA4000 GTR rotors (which cracked - the crappy old design) with the sumitomos spaced out, Had braided lines and was using DS2500s and DS3000s. I found the pedal to be harder and felt more positive (so i guess the chinese calipers are more rigid that the sumis). Nice big pads too.

Agree with Mr Untouchable - wouldn't touch the coilovers but the brake kit is good.

First things first...by the sounds of what you are doing...std R33 GTR Brembos will be fine. Have a look at Ant's vids. Seriously quick track car with similar ir not more power than you in his full weight daily driven car on semis. He ran std setup for a long gtime with DBA 5000 2 pce rotors. The car had a bit of an appetite for rotors and pads, but thats because he does so many bloody track days!

https://www.youtube.com/user/Ant1997GTR?feature=watch

I think you need to just throw some good quality pads and fluids in the car and get out there and go from there. Std kit is pretty damn good if onky doign sprints and fun days

I've been using Alcon big brake kit 343 mm rotors http://www.jdl-brakes.com/alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-6-pot-o343x32-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html with low offset 17" Enkei wheels, for two years. They perform very well on track, with yellow Pagid pads, much better than AP kit that I had on R32. No BIAS issue with stock rear calipers and DBA rotors. I'm going to sell my front kit very soon, and change for Alcon 365 mm kit with 350 mm rears http://www.jdl-brakes.com/special-offer-alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-and-rear-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html but need to find correct wheels first.

I have a R33 GTS-T and am currently looking at the 2 and link of Alcon front and rears (365 front and 350 rear). The car is now 100% used for racing and sprints.

I am a real noob when it comes to this stuff.

Will these fit under my P1 racing 17x8 rims with a 22 offset? I am also looking to buy a couple set of Enkei's rims in 17x9 and am unsure of what offset I will need to fit these brakes and the car without cutting or flaring the guards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...