Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello to all,
i have made the decision to start stripping my stagea going into mid April,
It is a 2001 S2 RS4S

This is an entire car that I have as my daily and I will be stripping completely, unless somebody is interested in buying it for $11k.

Details as follow:

Manual NEO rb25det @93k km.

everything from centre console to engine to looms, coilovers, exhaust, power fc, downpipe etc etc is available.

the aftermarket goodies i have are:
-Coilovers, custom made from bilstein and cusco. used for about 4000km 24x damper adjustable, Front 13kg/mm Rear 9kg/mm

-HKS high power silent exhaust (SS), comes with highflow cat, and even a straight through mid pipe, which replaces the Cat, and muffler for those who like the sound, and the flames...

-3" split dump

-r34 power fc

-r34gtt rims with 30mm spacers to fit the rear wheels

- has reco, and newly powedercoated rear subframe. (replaced due to the pothole saga for those who remember)

Misc:

-diff still locks up really well, no squeaks or weird noises while driving (all around the car)

-has front dayz bar in pearl white, has marks, rear is a dolphin bar.

-reco front drive shafts, new boots and joints

The bad:

Front quater panels have 2 dings in them from some dipshits opening their doors into them, the roof has some hail damage.

driver power window motor has given up.

the car has been serviced every 5000km with full synthetic oil, 5w 40 nulon oil. the car works 100% and i have looked after it performance wise like a god, has never and will never miss a beat

like every japanese stagea, it has some rust here and there.

I will upload pictures tomorrow

if you guys are interested in either the whole car or parts let me know, either pm me, call me, email me or reply on here.

Email: jeanheide@hotmail.com

Ph: 0406168123

Remember: MID APRIL is stripping season, not before, as I need it to get me to work.


Regards

Jean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421169-stripping-stagea-s2-rs4s/
Share on other sites

dibs front bar pending pics and price, possibly power fc (probably still that GTR one if you have it too...) also guessing rest of the car is white? condition of bonnet?

  • 2 weeks later...

ok everyone, this is a rough start, will list whatever else i can think of/ people ask for.

Dash: $150
ClusterSpeedo: $250
Vents: $100 for all
3 middle gauges: $100
air controller unit: $100
Steering wheel: $25
Centre console: i will put on ebay so the highest bidder can take it as there are too many people interested. (ashtray to armrest)
Pedal setup: $150

Engine, loom, ecu, sensors and all pumps, sensors etc incl front diff: $2300 perfect for whole conversion
Gearbox with shifter and transfer case: $800
front shafts: $100 each
rear shafts: $150 each
rear diff (LSD): $300
rear subframe incl hicas, hubs, joints etc: $500 (acid dipped, and powdercoated in black. this is also the reaaaaaaally narrow subframe if you wish to put on the craziest offset)

front and rear brakes, with pads and disks: $200

Stock suspension: $100

Coilovers 24 damper adjustment, f13kg r9kg: $750
neo power fc with handcontroller: $900

Exhaust: Stock, HKS hipower silent with stainless cat, and a middle muffler replacement pipe and decat in one, and a 3" split downpipe: $1000 for all and everything

Body panels:
Bonnet: $100
Front doors: $150 each
rear doors: $150 each
rear glass around boot (with the inbuilt antenna): $150 each
boot: $130
I will take out all the locks from boot, ignition and doors and will put it up as a replacement kit for anyone interested
Spoiler (fibreglass): $80

FRONT DAYZ BAR: will also be listed on ebay for everybody to have a fair go at

side skirts: $150

Xenon front lights with ballasts: Both $400 would benefit from a nice polish
rear lights: $300 for everything, all 4 lights
side white blinkers: $50 pair
front blinkers: $80 pair
front high beams: $100 pair
Grill: $100
left and right guards with some scratches and a dent or 2: $40 each

roof racks: $300

r34 wheels: 4x with tyres and 2x in gun metal grey with no tyres $400


Everything else, just ask me as i have no clue what other main parts i may have missed

Edited by Bronx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with no BOV you will have issues unless the MAF is a hot film type like the R35 which has some design features to deal with reversion. Hot wire MAFs are very sensitive.
    • So i just change the (whatever is inside ma original MAF and slide the R34 MAF (it is gonna fit right in? ) and somewhere on the hot side a BoV...i presume that would be vented to the atmo? I just "trying" to understand...maybe my mechanic would know this   I would not mind(even prefer) to run stock BoV cuz it is way more than fine but i do not have that and only pipeing what is left is oem J pipe ... I will be running Blitz fmic(to fit oem one side style) and i gonna need custom pipes cuz i do not have rest of those pipes and hoses... But i am want standalone ECU. Only choice i have atm is Nistune...but that is not gonna cut it right?I dont know what Nistune can and cant do... I know you guys know Link and Haltech...but whatabout ECUmaster? I know guys in here run those but i literally do not know about that and do not know differences... Just know to take whatever "my" tuner can work on.  
    • Is that the blue one rpm?  
    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
×
×
  • Create New...