Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A couple months ago I noticed my r33 gtst hicas ball joints were flogged but neglected the issue. I recently had a full wheel alignment done and the rear end is still snaking under acceleration and deceleration, so i decided I'd better have a closer look at the problem. As expected the balljoint are creating play and they need to be replaced asap. I've had a solid look on the net for the best upgrade without buying a whole hicas lockout system and not much luck. I have a lock bar already and i dont want to tamper with the aligment since i just paid for one. Does anyone know where i can get solid bushes to replace the worn ball joints or what the best upgrade would be. this is the only option i have found so far - http://www.jdmgarageuk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=843. I've herd rubber(non solid bushes) would create unwanted play...

There are fairly inexpensive ball joint replacements on ebay, made by a tawainese manufacturer. I dont have HICAS, but have used the other ball joints (2 sets front AWD ones, 1 set of rear ones) and theyve been fine.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-REAR-LOWER-BALL-JOINT-HICAS-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R34-R33-89-02-/170765872227?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c2706c63

So i couldnt find ant upgrades that could be posted to australia and the ebay selling have really bad feedback(scammers and there ball joints dont fit plus they claim they aus sellers but are located in taiwan).

I ended up finding some genuine nissan r33 hicas ball joints on justjap for $80 a side. Hope this info can help others in the same situation.

Yeah cheers mate, makes sense. Justjap sent me 1 gtst ball joint and 1 gtr ball joint....any chance the gtr one would still fit? It has an extra fitting inside it on the back end that faces towards the front of the car but other then that it looks identical..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...