Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an r33 skyline 1994, it has a bad case of backfire, it has very poor acceleration and when i accelerate it gets stuck at 3 rpm backfiring really bad, i have check spark plugs, fuel filter, coils, afm, vacuum leaks, i have cleaned throttle body, afm, aac valve ive had a mechanic check it he cldnt find problem, its undrivable and check engine lights on, timing strts up at 20 on strt up and slowly decreases to 15 as car warms up. Mods are

Splitfire coils.

550cc fuel pump.

3 inch turbo bAck exhaust

High flow turbo

Apexi pod filter

Apexi fc commander

Boost Gauge

Front intercooler

Boost controller

Lowered 1.5 inchs

Short shift gear box

What di you guys think

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421517-r33-problem/
Share on other sites

Even though you have splitfires in there it sounds like textbook coilpacks.

Try some other known working coilpacks in it.

Otherwise you say you have only 'checked' sparkplugs and 'cleaned' the AFM.

Id go for changing spark plugs to the tried and tested bcpr7es .8 gap. Also 'check' that you dont have a dry solder on your afm or some other problem/damage in it.

That timing seems normal but otherwise when was the last time it was tuned/ PFC checked?

good luck. Nothing worse than a case of the missfires/backfires.

Edited by jjman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421517-r33-problem/#findComment-6780712
Share on other sites

I changed sparkplugs to those ones clned maf the joints look fine but it could be i unplug maf while car was running it stalled strted it up with maf unplugged idled shit we tested coils by unpluging one at a time while car was running

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421517-r33-problem/#findComment-6780751
Share on other sites

mate it seems at peak boost is when your problem is, has to be either afm or coils/plugs. very sure of it. i put to much oil on my air filter once and when it hit boost at around 2600rpm it hit a wall, point being afm wasnt reading correctly. and coil packs bring on the engine light. on standard computers anyway not to sure about pfc in how it stores trouble codes if it has any

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421517-r33-problem/#findComment-6781099
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
×
×
  • Create New...