R33 Problem

[Nige1]

Boost seems fine, its weird i have a blocked bov but it still makes a standard blow off wen im over 4.5 rpm its driving today but relli bad, like no power at all

[DVS JEZ]

Can u free rev it or drive off boost above 3krpm

[portaz]

Boost leak or loose clamp u can't see properly u need to take afm off and make up a connection to compressor I use tennis ball clamp it down and add pressure to it and listen for leaks.

[MickoLis]

Buzzing ...... pull your cat off and see if part of your turbine wheel is playing hide and go seek in there

[Nige1]

It was free revving before, but usually it doesnt it sounds like a huge cacuum leak its building boost but wen i let go of accelerator it goes tututu as my bov is blocked nd a loud wush noise as well now

[sonicz]

Go to your exhaust and smell it. does it smell like burning oil or fuel? have you been checking your dipstick too see if you are loosing more oil than before the problem occured?

Edited March 16, 2013 by sonicz

[Nige1]

Ive been monitoring oil its fine fueks goin fast tho the filters fine

[Bitsushiti]

If you want to check your CAS (this is for CAS with mitsubishi logo):

• Pull the fuel pump fuse out

• Start engine over until it dies

• Unplug the CAS

• Have your handy modified spark plug lead and timing gun ready

• Remove the three bolts and carefully slide the CAS out. Try spinning the shaft on the back. It should spin smoothly & freely, if it's hard to spin and/or has a grimey/scratchy feel to it (metal shavings), it's likely cactus.

Optional: You can try cleaning it by removing the three screws on the back, and the two screws on the metal plate that goes around the plug. Once the three base screws are out and the metal plate is removed from around the plug, give the shaft a couple of gentle taps with the rubber handle of a screwdriver and the case will come apart. You do not want to bend the disc inside so be careful. Don't bother removing the two screws on the black plastic thing inside too, there's three little delicate pins inside it that seem like they don't want to let go. If the disc inside is ok and not bent, hose the inside of the CAS out with mass airflow sensor cleaner and reassemble.

• Plug the CAS back in again, turn your key to ignition on and slowly spin the shaft by hand. You should hear your injectors clicking. If not, check the plug, if still no go, CAS is buggered.

• Check the seal/gasket between the CAS and the engine, make sure it's still good, put a dob of grease in the end of the CAS shaft, align the half-moon thingy to match the half moon position on your cam, carefully slide it back in and do up the three bolts to finger-tight. Put fuel pump fuse back in again. Consult FSM on re-setting timing to 15 degrees BTDC, then tighten the the three bolts up (don't over-do it).

If any of this advice is wrong I happily stand to be corrected... I did mine recently using the above method and it still works perfectly

Cheers

[Nige1]

Ill give that a try

[Nige1]

Ok so have taken it to a workshop, i have been told my ignition module isnt grounded and when i ground it if it still is f**ke cld mean its broken or the cas is gone, i also need a new catylac converter and to get my pipe welded(f**ker snapped)

[DVS JEZ]

I would try get it on a dyno. Then u can see whts happening

[Nige1]

Isnt it like 800 bucks to get dynod

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

no, just pop it on a dyno so you can measure rpm vs. a/f and also push the car without breaking the law

most operators will charge around $100 to pop your car on and test it..

$800+ is for a tune including dyno time

[Nige1]

Ok guys car stopped working so selling as a wrecking car whole, ull need a trailer to pick it up, make offers?

[Hadouken]

ill give you 1.5k

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

where you located? I'll come have a look and see what I can buy

[Nige1]

Starting new thread on it now

[Jayden.K]

Ok guys car stopped working so selling as a wrecking car whole

lol and thats how we fix it