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R33 Problem

Nige1

By Nige1,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Bitsushiti Contributor

Bitsushiti

Posted
Posted

If you want to check your CAS (this is for CAS with mitsubishi logo):

• Pull the fuel pump fuse out

• Start engine over until it dies

• Unplug the CAS

• Have your handy modified spark plug lead and timing gun ready

• Remove the three bolts and carefully slide the CAS out. Try spinning the shaft on the back. It should spin smoothly & freely, if it's hard to spin and/or has a grimey/scratchy feel to it (metal shavings), it's likely cactus.

Optional: You can try cleaning it by removing the three screws on the back, and the two screws on the metal plate that goes around the plug. Once the three base screws are out and the metal plate is removed from around the plug, give the shaft a couple of gentle taps with the rubber handle of a screwdriver and the case will come apart. You do not want to bend the disc inside so be careful. Don't bother removing the two screws on the black plastic thing inside too, there's three little delicate pins inside it that seem like they don't want to let go. If the disc inside is ok and not bent, hose the inside of the CAS out with mass airflow sensor cleaner and reassemble.

• Plug the CAS back in again, turn your key to ignition on and slowly spin the shaft by hand. You should hear your injectors clicking. If not, check the plug, if still no go, CAS is buggered.

• Check the seal/gasket between the CAS and the engine, make sure it's still good, put a dob of grease in the end of the CAS shaft, align the half-moon thingy to match the half moon position on your cam, carefully slide it back in and do up the three bolts to finger-tight. Put fuel pump fuse back in again. Consult FSM on re-setting timing to 15 degrees BTDC, then tighten the the three bolts up (don't over-do it).

If any of this advice is wrong I happily stand to be corrected... I did mine recently using the above method and it still works perfectly ;)

Cheers

Nige1 Enthusiast

Nige1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so have taken it to a workshop, i have been told my ignition module isnt grounded and when i ground it if it still is f**ke cld mean its broken or the cas is gone, i also need a new catylac converter and to get my pipe welded(f**ker snapped)

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

no, just pop it on a dyno so you can measure rpm vs. a/f and also push the car without breaking the law

most operators will charge around $100 to pop your car on and test it..

$800+ is for a tune including dyno time

  • 3 weeks later...

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