Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes.

Apparently ended up in internal disciplinary action for the driver, as it was not his first time.

He cut me off, drastically, so that I had to take evasive action. After I beeped, he then flipped me off and continued to do so up until I pulled over and attempted to gain entry to the bus. He mellowed out after that

Didn't get touched.

Did you get hit?

My old housemate got rear ended, with the driver just driving off.

Ended up going through his insurance, but driver disputed it, claiming my housemate pulled into his lane, reducing his stopping distance

I didn't get hit. Stopped pretty close though. Thank gawd for ebc pads! The backs feel like they have flat spots and I'm also getting a lot of vibration from both rear wheels. Might give the insurer the heads up.

Edit: could be in for rotors and rubber if this resulted in some damage. Am also picking up some noise from the wheel bearings. It's too wet to go and check right now but will ASAP.

similar thing happen to me... had to brake hard a swerve.

beeped, got the finger.

took photo on the plates and note of location.

reported it via email.

got a call the next day. complained more and informed them I'll go to the media.

Bitch got fired.

suck shit kunt!

Edited by TTT

lol... You braked hard to avoid an impact (as brakes are designed for) and now something is wrong and you think they should fix it?

lol... You got no chance mate.

sounds like your car was not road worthy if shit is broken from braking hard.

lol. It was 60 down to 0 very quickly,. All I'm saying is something isn't right. They've fixed wheels and tyres before when it;s been their fault. Shall hear back next week and go from there.

If you hit a pothole and damaged a rim, I could understand that council may be liable (stretch but still maybe).

If you are driving along doing 60 and a grandma in a hybrid camry pulls out of her parking spot without looking and you jump on the brakes and do a little ABS skiddie and don't have an accident, but later you feel that the rear brakes are a bit weird, is it her fault?

I can't see how someone you "almost" had an accident with could be liable for something on your car failing when used as intended.

Just means that the now faulty part was not road worthy.

If you give first gear a push and hit the limiter, then the next day you find an oil leak, are you calling up Nissan?

i had a bus pull out of a bus stop and nearly take me out one day. i know you are supposed to give way to them etc, but he didn't put the indicator on until i had just passed the back corner of the bus and then just pulled out straight away.

talking to a mate who used to be a bus driver, or work in the management side of things (can't remember which), he said that drivers are supposed to wait something like 4 seconds after they put the indicator on before they even attempt to pull out. on the other hand though, he also said that with the new LED indicators on a lot of buses these days, they can take up to a few seconds to start to flash after the driver puts the indicator on. so that just screws everything up.

I'm glad to hear no one got hurt.

Happens on the Goldie as well. Every time I see a bus at a bus stop I try immediately to merge into the other (right) lane if there is one as IMO they don't give a sh!t about you.

Yes, I understand they have a schedule to run and considering roadworks, school zones, etc... they are always under pressure to meet that schedule hence, why they are pressed for to make up time but at what costs?

HOWEVER.....just because we need to give way to them doesn't mean that they have to be arrogant and abuse it and more importantly tag innocent motorists because of that.

I'm certain its been brought up many times before with translink, Qld transport and other authorities, but bottom line is that justice does not prevail. In addition to that the public transport is already bad as it is

What they fail to realise is that if there is a severe prang resulting from such a situation NO ONE is better off as the bus will be reported in an accident, the passengers may be injured, the bus gets nowhere, passengers get nowhere, the car will be totaled and the driver will be mangled, and bus driver will be let off with slap on the wrist.

Its really about time theses bus drivers start thinking a bit more about safety of the passengers and other motorist instead of just a f@#king timetable which already late anyways.

There I feel better and I hope you do too.

Edited by Ants

To the people that said t they got the driver fired or disciplinary action taken against them. Do you actually have any proof of this happening other than a letter saying action has been taken?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...