Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

been trying to find a thread but seriously after 2 hours of searching i gave up sorry.

few question

still running stock intercooler atm, but want to upgrade to a FMIC, done a bit of searching, just wondering if rumours are true or not etc.

so Greddy FMIC kit was going for 800 from the Greddy site, full piping etc, and comes with a replacement water bottle as apparently the stock one is slightly in the way, has anyone bought a full Greddy kit? opinions

also i found another FMIC non branded kit, with the exact same dimensions but no water bottle for 400. think its worth getting non branded? and probably use a heat gun and mold the stock bottle? should i do it?

last one is Branded VS non branded for FMIC has anyone ever massive problems with non branded such and yeh...

any info would be awesome guys!!! cheerss

Conrad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422392-r34-gtt-fmic/
Share on other sites

Just buy the el cheapo IC kit, the jap kits do mount better though. I think you can also buy the Greddy washer bottle separately if you must.
Also, you can get a Greddy Kit for rougly $500 through Jesse Streeter or others. If i was you i would buy a blitz turnflow cooler to suit the R34, it is jap quality so it will mount well, plus you don't need to drill any holes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422392-r34-gtt-fmic/#findComment-6795806
Share on other sites

GTSBoy nah not that much roughly 400hp should be enough for me

GHO5T yeh i think you can just buy them separately from Greddy, i think.. ill have to search some more

Grimesy fitting wise the cooler and all the pipes are identical to the Greddy one.. like i layed them out next to each other and its identical... so i just wasnt sure if the cheaper one was gonna case problems or fail... if people have had bad experience with the generic one then i would just get the Greddy straight out... so im just getting some opinions, because im doing up 2 r34.. so i gotta get two sets of either one xD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422392-r34-gtt-fmic/#findComment-6795848
Share on other sites

GTSBoy nah not that much roughly 400hp should be enough for me

Haha. I actually put one too many 9s into the first number and so you want exactly the same power as the bottom end of my posted range!!

On that basis, I would suggest that the yum cha coolers are not going to be a problem for you. So a copy of a good brand's kit is quite likely going to be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422392-r34-gtt-fmic/#findComment-6796470
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...