Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just bought my first skyline its a 40th anniversary GTST auto i want to increase power to 300kw at the wheels

I have been told the auto cant handle 300kw .How much should this cost to put a manual box in including the box and labour?

Also is there an honest tuner in Sydney who can increase the power and swap the boxes.I keep hearing their are not

any honest tuners in Sydney

Yes, well, that's why I asked. Because it means you have to pay for all of it.

Gearbag is $1k upwards. If you strike it lucky you may get a flywheel and clutch in the same deal. If not, then you're up for anywhere from $200 to $1200 for a second hand stock setup to a new lightweight flywheel and strong clutch.

You need a tailshaft. Could cost you a hundred or 2.

You need a gearbox crossmember. Could be anything from $20.

Need a clutch pedal and pedalbox. And clutch master. And clutch pipe/hoses. Could be a few hundred.

Could be a lot less if you buy a whole manual conversion from someone. You see them advertised for up to $2k. Whether they sell for that is another thing.

You need the engine-gearbox side wiring loom.

It will take a proper mechanic most of a day to get the old out and the new in and get the clutch bled and adjusted, gearbox filled with oil and test driven. That will cost whatever he wants to charge for that much time.

Thanks for the reply i have been quoted $3500 that includes refurbished gearbox and brand new clutch drive in drive out.

I am just trying to get a ball park figure so i am not taken for a ride.

The place that quoted me seems to really know their shit

So i think it should be a good job

Hi mate, you will end up with a lot betterand cheaper result by just selling your car and buying a manual. There are plenty of manual r33 gtst to choose from.

^^ exactly. . i tried auto to manual with a bluebird that i had, total PITA! just get a manual 33

$3500 sounds too cheap for the swap

^^ exactly. . i tried auto to manual with a bluebird that i had, total PITA! just get a manual 33

$3500 sounds too cheap for the swap

thanks for the advice i have decided to stay with the auto and have it strengthened +put a shift kit in.

Edited by Coatsy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...