Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

M35 Humans,

Just wondering if anyone has come up with a definitive fix for the delay from the time the throttle is mashed in 1st gear to when you actually get full power?

Its always been a bugbear of mine with the M35s I've had and now I have one that I'm going to hang onto I want it to disappear.

I was thinking of a throttle controller of some description but I'm not 100% sure it will do what I want.

Many Thanks In Advance.

Jeff

Throttle controllers don't work, I have tried one. The throttle restriction is built into the ecu, and occurs when the brake signal pin is energised. It also latches for 3 seconds after the brake is released. You need to cut the brake signal wire to get 100% throttle, but this will eventually throw a CEL so you need to wire a switch across the wires also.

Do a search, there are a few threads on the throttle restriction and brake cut mod. Highly recommended.

Thanks for the tip guys. The car finally arrived today so once its complied the mods will begin. And yes its the car Marc would have been talking about. Still working out whether to RWD and 6 speed it or not...

Thanks for the tip guys. The car finally arrived today so once its complied the mods will begin. And yes its the car Marc would have been talking about. Still working out whether to RWD and 6 speed it or not...

I have 2 6 speed boxes here for the same reason, but I couldn't bring myself to ruin the car, keeping it awd is the only way. Why not drop a 33 GTR box in there? :)

that brake cut mod is awesome. you get CEL after about 8 days though if you install a switch and just touch the brake pedal CEL is cleared automatically. even just driving around town the car feels so much better.

Besides the cel coming on does it do anything else? I.e changing gearing retard timing ect?

Besides the cel coming on does it do anything else? I.e changing gearing retard timing ect?

Other than resetting the CEL every so often (there are ways to automatically circumvent this with some extra wiring), there is only good to be had from this mod.

If the cel comes on it cuts boost and fuel, so be aware if runnig and EBC or manual bleed valve.

Really? I found absolutely no difference on mine. However, I always reset the the CEL quite quickly. No idea what happens if left for 100's of km.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...