Jump to content
SAU Community

Coolant Swirl Pot

Roy

By Roy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

I am looking for a coolant swirl pot to go between my block and the radiator return. For the life of me I cant find anyone that makes one to suit Skylines. I thought maybe Sard or ARC do one but cant find anything. Those ARC ones I saw for other models suggest custom is better.

Anyone have any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422915-coolant-swirl-pot/
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Is your engine breathing much Roy? I noticed the Gibson 32's ran a fairly small one, but the Sierra's ran an 8 or 10 litre pot. They must have had a lot of issues with air in the system.

I have a Chinese one here to fit, just run small hoses to all the high points in the cooling system and the lower return to the bottom radiator hose or radiator drain bung.

post-63525-0-09528700-1365044655_thumb.jpg

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Since putting the plazmaman plenum on the car its a lot harder and time consuming to bleed properly. In the coming weeks I will be changing turbos a bunch of times meaning dropping coolant etc and CBF having to do time consuming bleeds each time.

So looking to grab a Greddy Header tank and connect to a high point of back of block but also want to connect to the return line. Not stressed if I canf dins anything as I will be connecting to the top of the radiator...but the radiator isnt ideal due to the top tank shape

This is what I am looking specifically for....though nozzles orientated for a Nissan

$(KGrHqN,!rcE88g9dOHYBPllt9Vhr!~~60_12.J

Frosty Grand Master

Frosty

Posted
Posted (edited)

Roy i have a GREDDY and well worth the stuffing around to get it running....

i removed my overflow bottle completely and run the breather from rad straight to the top inlet on the swirl pot.

Bottom outlet goes down towards the heater section

2 side mounts are on on the top of plenum and bottom of plenum.

i can get some pics if you want as im running plazmaman aswell :)

Edited by Frosty
Frosty Grand Master

Frosty

Posted
Posted

So where do you pipe your overflow to when it gets hot ? Nowhere if I read correctly?

with the greddy its virtually its own overflow so if it does blow through it goes straight back into the swirl pot...

the other way i have seen it done is remove the rad cap (or dont have one) so that pipe actually becomes part of the cooling system so its a constant flow of coolant from that top port of rad to the swirl pot

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The latter is what I am familiar with. You put an atmo reservoir cap on the radiator and you run your 1.3bar cap on the swirl pot which is the highest point

I guess I will have to put the in line swirl pot on my list of things to tack up for someone else to weld up for me :( Just isnt enough time and money with farging cars :)

Scott...my understanding of why the Gibson R32 ran them is because they had lowered the radiator to fit the air intake above it. So they had to run a small to stop air pockets forming in what otherwise would have been high points in the engine. The Cossies run a larger one to boost capacity as they also run separate alloy coolers for just the turbo water line that goes from the turbo, to the cooler to the header tank

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

The only way to do it properly is as per the diagram above.

We weld up the radiator filler hole and use the header tank to fill.

-4an fitting from highest point of the radiator to the header 1.5in from the top

-4an from the original cylinder head bleed point to same height on header tank.

Base of header tank T'ed into the lower radiator hose heater hose or the lower tank of the radiator preferably.

The swirl pots that are only there to create a new high point. The swirl pot in the top hose should still bleed its highest point to a header tank

Frosty Grand Master

Frosty

Posted
Posted

The only way to do it properly is as per the diagram above.

We weld up the radiator filler hole and use the header tank to fill.

-4an fitting from highest point of the radiator to the header 1.5in from the top

-4an from the original cylinder head bleed point to same height on header tank.

Base of header tank T'ed into the lower radiator hose heater hose or the lower tank of the radiator preferably.

The swirl pots that are only there to create a new high point. The swirl pot in the top hose should still bleed its highest point to a header tank

$(KGrHqN,!rcE88g9dOHYBPllt9Vhr!~~60_12.J

can you make something like this for r32? whats the cost? im sure Roy would be keen on one aswell?

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

That's the setup I am doing Dale, how is yours going?

Slowly. :verymad:

Too much time at work; not enough time with shops open...

​Got a couple more fittings to pick up; than I'm good to go. Hopefully Monday.

Also, apologies to Roy; I wasn't being a smartarse, but I had the pic handy , and didn't get time to edit with an explanation.

Edited by Daleo
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

$(KGrHqN,!rcE88g9dOHYBPllt9Vhr!~~60_12.J

can you make something like this for r32? whats the cost? im sure Roy would be keen on one aswell?

I fabricate those all the time. Pretty much every GTR I've built to be raced has a header tank and swirl pot system.

The swirl pot alone is $180, at the moment I'm closed for a week so nothing will be getting fabricated before the 15th

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...