Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd agree.....but if your trying to get down to a decent sports profile and your starting rolling diameter was 55/18's what do you do? 35/20's?

Touche. You do have a lot of arch to fill. I was open to getting an AR-X, but the tan interior put me right off.

I believe that you can strike a decent balance between form and function. I'm not advocating a 215 on a 9, but a little stretch isnt a bad thing.

Touche. You do have a lot of arch to fill. I was open to getting an AR-X, but the tan interior put me right off.

I believe that you can strike a decent balance between form and function. I'm not advocating a 215 on a 9, but a little stretch isnt a bad thing.

yup I agree....tan interior is shit! My interior is black though....so I haz winz! :P

Don't like stretch at all....I like sidewall....then I can play with tyre pressures! I need all the traction I can get.

I have to say the 245 40 19's on mine ride just as well as the 215 55 17's they replaced if they are any harsher it's is not noticeable but I put that down to the Bilsteins. I can really notice the lateral handling improvement with the extra tyre on the road. My 2 c.

yup I agree....tan interior is shit! My interior is black though....so I haz winz! :P

Don't like stretch at all....I like sidewall....then I can play with tyre pressures! I need all the traction I can get.

Stretch has the gaids.

Anything under 8.5" wide is not even a worthy upgrade IMO.

And if your into handling, make sure your 20's are not Tempe tyres/ taleb tyres / ozzy tyres specials.

Stuff I could cast a better circle in my daughters sand pit!

Better have bucket of lead to balance the suckers to.

Really a well made 19" is the performance limit.

Anything over your adding to much Unsprung weight and tyres will cost you a heap.

Just my 3 cents

my 20" rims (Advanti racing) with tyres are 3.6 kilo lighter per wheel than the original 18" wheels that came from the Autech factory.

And yes whilst tyres can be expensive I can get Pirelli P-Zero Nero's that come out stock on a Porsche GT3 from factory for $420 each so you get what you pay for really.

(note: I couldn't see the point in paying that much for a tyre that's going to last half as long as my Phi's that are made in the same factory as Michellin's that handle beautifully for a fraction of the price)

also no balancing problems whatsoever

Im sure 18 x 9.5 with some decent offset, camber coilovers and fender love would suit nicely.

20" tyres are not in the world of performance.

19's are too pricey to be chewing through on the track all the time. Thus 18's appear to be the more optimal cost effective choice.

Yes 20's aren't really common in the performance range but there are a few on the market that can fit in that category like the Initial D rims (cant remember brand) or my advanti desires all though they look more of a luxury type wheel. Also not to mention R35's come out with 20's and the before mentioned Porsche GT3, yes they are not a directional tyre but that doesn't mean its not performance.

that's why I have the 20's for street and my stock 18's for the track which will be replaced for light weight track rims at a later stage because you can get proper performance tyres for that size.....

  • Like 1

Love how these threads always get a little out of control. At the end of the day people all like different things. I my self run 19x9.5 +22, perfect fitment for my ride IMO. I also run a 225 40 R19 which most would not like but suits the look I'm going for perfectly.

post-83066-0-37687300-1365414751_thumb.jpg

Love how these threads always get a little out of control. At the end of the day people all like different things. I my self run 19x9.5 +22, perfect fitment for my ride IMO. I also run a 225 40 R19 which most would not like but suits the look I'm going for perfectly.

Oh mate that sits perfect.

Thats exactly what i am after.

Being the odd size that it is and not having a bottomless pit of money I went with Kuhmo KU31's. They do the job OK, little noisy at times but because of the odd size it leaves little choice with out spending HUGE $$$

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...