Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I posted this in nsw thread in reply to something else but thought here is a better place. Just went to install gearbox onto new engine that has rear oil drain and twin plate clutch. On previous installs I usually angle engine down so gearbox can be attached but with the rear oil drain so close to my freshly painted engine bay I'm pretty sure it will hit. The only option I can think is lift engine off mount which isn't an issue as its just sitting there nothing hooked up, and move it forward then connect box and move both back or is there another truck in missing? I've searched a fair bit on the web and sau and can't find the answer.

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423102-r32-gtr-gearbox-install-problem/
Share on other sites

Maybe it's a strength thing Duncan do u have any time free this week? Jez suggested lowering engine cross member which sounds like it could help but definitely with the wife and myself there wasn't enough man power to twist and maneuver that's for sure

I like to take a bit of material off the ribbing on the starter motor bump to get a little more room. After that its just some brutality to get it in. Are the clutch plate splines aligned?

when we do them, we spin 4 8mm nut's onto the engine cross member studs, and undo the engine cross member nut's, and they bottom out on the 8mm nut's.

drops the engine down about 30mm, makes a huge diffrence.

Cheers

I will have a look at that but I just had a look a there is no room to angle engine without hitting firewall so box must go on straight. As the engine is just sitting there if the cross member idea doesn't work I'm thinking moving the engine forward should do the trick .

My dad gave me a hand with the engine forward all the bolts were so easy, a little mucking around to line up engine mounts after box was attached but still less than an hour so I'm pretty pleased its in, now to all those pesky fabrication mods

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, don't bother doing any actual measurements on the car. Just go ask the inter-f**king-net.
    • I currently have 18 x 9 +30 on the front with 18 x 10.5 +38 on the rear. Absolutely regretted it. Ended up putting 15 mm spacers on front and 25 mm spacers on the rear. Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers. Definitely would go more aggressive then what you were originally planning. Keep in mind my guards are rolled and cars fair low so you might possibly need to roll guards depending how aggressive you go and how low the car is. Im not an expert but the 18 x 8.5 +25 18x9.5 +30 Sounds like it would sit much better.
    • Hey guys, sorry i have been researching for a few months and absolutely cannot wrap my head around this. I am about to order some rims to fit my R34 Gtt with coilovers My original plan was to order Rota grid R in 18x8.5 +30 235 40 R18 Fronts 18x9.5 +35 255 35 r18 rears But then the thought in my head said this isnt aggressive enough. I want the most concave spokes i can get without too much of poke and scrubbing   So my thoughts now is  18x8.5 +25 18x9.5 +30   My question is will this be the most aggressive i could get it without any guard rolling and does the type of rim style affect the offset / size.   Thanks everyone.
    • Lower parts are there. On passenger seat, bright yellow bit is the release mount. On drivers, bright yellow bit is the lower buckle for the other side. My bet is lowers are tucked out of the way as much as possible for visuals.
    • I'm guessing its a 4 point harness, 3 of the 4 belts are visible. I'm guessing the hidden belt is tucked down between the seat and door. 
×
×
  • Create New...