Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Rear wiper on the R32 GT-R stopped working. No washer jet either. Tried a known working switch to no avail. Fuse looks good. Strange that the washer jet doesn't work any more. Used to work fine until last week.

There is a small box just next to the wiper motor in the boot labelled 'amp wiper', will look at replacing it. Still doesn't explain the washer jet not working.

Any tips will be appreciated.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423126-r32-rear-wipers-not-working/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry to strap onto this thread but does the rear sqirter have a separate water bottle and if so where is it located.

Ps. Sold 10 Wiper delete plugs this week.

Maybe one of these guys would give/sell the rear wiper motor to you ?. Just a thought.

Sorry to strap onto this thread but does the rear sqirter have a separate water bottle and if so where is it located.

Ps. Sold 10 Wiper delete plugs this week.

Maybe one of these guys would give/sell the rear wiper motor to you ?. Just a thought.

no.

runs out of the main washer bottle from 2nd pump.

Thanks Luke

If I put the wiper motor back in I'll check the second pump up front. It's never worked. Maybe not plugged or motor blown.

Oh and I'll reconnect the tube in the rear too. For a Laugh I was thinking of aiming it to the right to squirt others.

Sorry to strap onto this thread but does the rear sqirter have a separate water bottle and if so where is it located.

Ps. Sold 10 Wiper delete plugs this week.

Maybe one of these guys would give/sell the rear wiper motor to you ?. Just a thought.

Hey champ if ur after the rear motor I give it to u

Hey mate, have you tried replacing the wiper motor? These tend to die when brushes wear low. These power jets and blades.. Sorry that's all I know

Thanks for the tip. I haven't tested the motor yet.

There are two pumps on the washer bottle in the engine bay so I thought the rear washer ran off that, but it could be possible that there's a second pump in the wiper assembly.

Anyone have a known working one they want to sell to me cheap cheap? :P

Thanks for the tip. I haven't tested the motor yet.

There are two pumps on the washer bottle in the engine bay so I thought the rear washer ran off that, but it could be possible that there's a second pump in the wiper assembly.

Anyone have a known working one they want to sell to me cheap cheap? :P

I have one if u want

  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got around to trying the spare wiper motor I got (thank you gtr0321994). Unfortunately still no go. There is voltage at the wiper amp box thing and the plug at the motor. Looks like it's a relay or *shudders* wiring.

4WD relay also died :glare:

Off topic, but does anyone know what this is?
0FuHRt2.jpg
Found in the passenger side guard, next to the jack.

Antenna booster?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
    • You sir, big win tonight. Precision never supplied compressor maps in the past and Idk when they started, but it seems they only offer for a few of the older gen2's which is exactly what I have. I punched in some numbers and seem to have gone with the wrong turbo. 600-700whp isn't in the most efficient area and is close to the choke line. 800whp is well off the map. Punching the numbers into a 68mm gen2 turbo map is bang on in the center. Here I was thinking going smaller would shift the power band down, but in reality it would just make it so much worst due to my rev limit. I would have never thought. 
    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
×
×
  • Create New...