Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the two ecu's we mentioned shit all over the PFC dejetro in terms of features and performance.

where you from mate?

as long as there not super expensive ill look into it mate as this is just a secondary project haha, im from victoria

find the tuner you are going to use, and ask them what they recommend.

some tuners prefer one ecu to the other.

best to get what they know for better tuning results.

im personally running a haltech platinum pro plug in.

wouldnt go anything else.

I'm not sure about ACL rings but its well known ACL race bearings are a good staple item for building a Nissan.

Personally if the motor is getting rings just spend the money on a set of pistons.. The added compression will make it nicer to drive on the road.

I'm not sure about ACL rings but its well known ACL race bearings are a good staple item for building a Nissan. Personally if the motor is getting rings just spend the money on a set of pistons.. The added compression will make it nicer to drive on the road.

is there any piston options besides forged?? thanks for all the input guys i really appreciate it, i just really wanna do this thing right and get it going reliably

is there any piston options besides forged?? thanks for all the input guys i really appreciate it, i just really wanna do this thing right and get it going reliably

most manufacturers offer non forged pistons for those that just want a standard rebuild.

although, if youre going to the trouble, why not go forged?

if built right, they may have a slight bit more noise when cold, then be fine when warm.

and if/when you mod, theyre already there, to take the punishment.

most manufacturers offer non forged pistons for those that just want a standard rebuild.

although, if youre going to the trouble, why not go forged?

if built right, they may have a slight bit more noise when cold, then be fine when warm.

and if/when you mod, theyre already there, to take the punishment.

i understand forged is better but at this stage i just wanna get it going i will build another bottem end and head combo over time, id rather spend the extra cash on a decent computer turbo and fuel system

i understand forged is better but at this stage i just wanna get it going i will build another bottem end and head combo over time, id rather spend the extra cash on a decent computer turbo and fuel system

if you just want it going, id try, and I emphasis try, to find a decent 2nd hand bottom end.

or complete motor.

just a thought.

i understand forged is better but at this stage i just wanna get it going i will build another bottem end and head combo over time, id rather spend the extra cash on a decent computer turbo and fuel system

That was my initial plan too with my RB30 build. Picked up a short block that was advertised to be in great condition. Ran a compression test on it, checked oil pressures everything came out great. Put a 3k rev limit on the ECU and broke it in for 1000 kms. Strapped it on a dyno, pushed it to 5k rpm and the bearings took a dump and jammed the engine. Had to be towed off the dyno back to the shop. After almost 3 months building and anticipation, it just plain sucked. Really don't wish it upon anyone.

We had to take everything apart and redo the whole thing again. Would've been a lot cheaper (and faster) for me to do it right from the beginning and go with Forgies, Race Bearings and a Billet Oil Pump.. lesson learnt for sure. I know many of course that just slapped a stock one and had zero issues.

That was my initial plan too with my RB30 build. Picked up a short block that was advertised to be in great condition. Ran a compression test on it, checked oil pressures everything came out great. Put a 3k rev limit on the ECU and broke it in for 1000 kms. Strapped it on a dyno, pushed it to 5k rpm and the bearings took a dump and jammed the engine. Had to be towed off the dyno back to the shop. After almost 3 months building and anticipation, it just plain sucked. Really don't wish it upon anyone.

We had to take everything apart and redo the whole thing again. Would've been a lot cheaper (and faster) for me to do it right from the beginning and go with Forgies, Race Bearings and a Billet Oil Pump.. lesson learnt for sure. I know many of course that just slapped a stock one and had zero issu

i cant quite figure out how u guys can be so against throwing a set of decent bearings and new rings, wont starting off with a fresh engine be better than slapping together an engine that i know has excess blowby i just dont get it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...