Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

recently my TB started playing up, while i was driving i would lose all power and not be able to accelerate I also noticed that my revs had lowered to near 0 when i started the car. Some days when i started her up same thing id get a engine light and have no accelerator. Speaking to craig he said look at the Throttle Body.

after ringing up numerouse places chasing a genuine part i was told

A. There were none in the country

B. and Quote from email http://www.nissanparts.com.au "The throttle body is $2118 available out of japan."

after a bit more googling i found these guys

www.PECONLINE.com.au

and they did it for

"Item: Nissan 350Z Throttle Body (042)

Total: $286 incl. delivery"

if any of you need this part try these guys.

It was also a very simple swap out job no learning no messing around.

post-34650-0-16340600-1366171586_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423708-nm35-throttle-body-replacement/
Share on other sites

I suppose you did all the cleaning etc first?

And I also assume the new one fixed your problem?

Reads as though it was an intermittent fault. Have you had it in long enough to make the 'all fixed' call?

  • Like 1

nah not sure if its fixed the issue. lol was there supposed to be heaps of cleaning involved? coz all i did was remove the old one and put the new one in. I took it for an hour drive and couldnt get it to fault?

Lol, a lot of TB issues are fixed by cleaning it. Was wondering if you tried cleaning first, before replace it.

I hope it has fixed your problem though.

lol man honestly im so lazey when im not at work, i just cant be stuffed trying to fix stuff, id rather just buy a new one and know itll last another 10 years before i have to replace it again (knowing i wont have the car for another ten years also helps).

ahhhhh i cant lie with a straight face once i replaced it i opened the other one up by cutting the pop rivets off to see whats inside. What i noticed inside is, i don't think cleaning out will fix any issues, there is only three gears, a DC motor and a Spring. if there was a sensor of some type yeah cleaning mite aid this but its pretty much mechanical besides the DC motor that has a + and - terminal. It has no other electronics.

Edited by loymclure

Yeah issue happened again this morning, started car, had no accelerator with a solid engine light. turned ther car off and turned it back on every thing was back to normal took it for a drive down the street and while i was driving (about 60 km/h) same thing happened engine was still on engine light apeared lost my accelerator, slipped it into neutral turned the car off, turned it back on and engine light went away and car was working again.

any ideas?

yeah i just realised this thanks scotty and dale, had a go at it and got two codes, (thought you needed to get the code when it was happening)

P0121 Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem

P0235 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

Car idles fine when its cold and warm?

not sure what the boost issue is, not running any boost controllers. last thing we did to it was swap the turbo for Hi-Flow and put in a boost guage, also i think i have one of your presprung waste gates scotty ? none of these should be throwing a code yeah ?

post-34650-0-55338200-1366245123_thumb.jpg

post-34650-0-98900600-1366245133_thumb.jpg

It will most definitely throw a code, as the wastegate will now hold 15-16psi and the car when cold is expecting no more than 7-8psi. You can perhaps just pull the plug off the boost sensor and stick a bung the hose to stop that one.

The other code is the same one I get, it is saying the throttle pedal sensor isn't within spec, and it limits the throttle. You can actually still drive like that, but you have to put your foot to the floor to accelerate a little. Do you have cruise control or a throttle controller plugged into the pedal harness? Otherwise you will need a new pedal assembly to replace the sensor, $220 I think from Amayama or $400 from Nissan.

I have Cruise controll, i just unplugged it and will drive it round for a bit to see what happens. ive had the cruise control for ages, this fault has only recently started happening. ill buy the new pedal assembly and throw it in. do you have a part number for us please? cheers

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...