Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

recently my TB started playing up, while i was driving i would lose all power and not be able to accelerate I also noticed that my revs had lowered to near 0 when i started the car. Some days when i started her up same thing id get a engine light and have no accelerator. Speaking to craig he said look at the Throttle Body.

after ringing up numerouse places chasing a genuine part i was told

A. There were none in the country

B. and Quote from email http://www.nissanparts.com.au "The throttle body is $2118 available out of japan."

after a bit more googling i found these guys

www.PECONLINE.com.au

and they did it for

"Item: Nissan 350Z Throttle Body (042)

Total: $286 incl. delivery"

if any of you need this part try these guys.

It was also a very simple swap out job no learning no messing around.

post-34650-0-16340600-1366171586_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423708-nm35-throttle-body-replacement/
Share on other sites

I suppose you did all the cleaning etc first?

And I also assume the new one fixed your problem?

Reads as though it was an intermittent fault. Have you had it in long enough to make the 'all fixed' call?

  • Like 1

nah not sure if its fixed the issue. lol was there supposed to be heaps of cleaning involved? coz all i did was remove the old one and put the new one in. I took it for an hour drive and couldnt get it to fault?

Lol, a lot of TB issues are fixed by cleaning it. Was wondering if you tried cleaning first, before replace it.

I hope it has fixed your problem though.

lol man honestly im so lazey when im not at work, i just cant be stuffed trying to fix stuff, id rather just buy a new one and know itll last another 10 years before i have to replace it again (knowing i wont have the car for another ten years also helps).

ahhhhh i cant lie with a straight face once i replaced it i opened the other one up by cutting the pop rivets off to see whats inside. What i noticed inside is, i don't think cleaning out will fix any issues, there is only three gears, a DC motor and a Spring. if there was a sensor of some type yeah cleaning mite aid this but its pretty much mechanical besides the DC motor that has a + and - terminal. It has no other electronics.

Edited by loymclure

Yeah issue happened again this morning, started car, had no accelerator with a solid engine light. turned ther car off and turned it back on every thing was back to normal took it for a drive down the street and while i was driving (about 60 km/h) same thing happened engine was still on engine light apeared lost my accelerator, slipped it into neutral turned the car off, turned it back on and engine light went away and car was working again.

any ideas?

yeah i just realised this thanks scotty and dale, had a go at it and got two codes, (thought you needed to get the code when it was happening)

P0121 Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem

P0235 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

Car idles fine when its cold and warm?

not sure what the boost issue is, not running any boost controllers. last thing we did to it was swap the turbo for Hi-Flow and put in a boost guage, also i think i have one of your presprung waste gates scotty ? none of these should be throwing a code yeah ?

post-34650-0-55338200-1366245123_thumb.jpg

post-34650-0-98900600-1366245133_thumb.jpg

It will most definitely throw a code, as the wastegate will now hold 15-16psi and the car when cold is expecting no more than 7-8psi. You can perhaps just pull the plug off the boost sensor and stick a bung the hose to stop that one.

The other code is the same one I get, it is saying the throttle pedal sensor isn't within spec, and it limits the throttle. You can actually still drive like that, but you have to put your foot to the floor to accelerate a little. Do you have cruise control or a throttle controller plugged into the pedal harness? Otherwise you will need a new pedal assembly to replace the sensor, $220 I think from Amayama or $400 from Nissan.

I have Cruise controll, i just unplugged it and will drive it round for a bit to see what happens. ive had the cruise control for ages, this fault has only recently started happening. ill buy the new pedal assembly and throw it in. do you have a part number for us please? cheers

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...