Jump to content
SAU Community

Full Time Track Car

SECURITY

By SECURITY,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

some of you know me, most dont but i've been around here for a while figuring out what i want to do with my car. ive taken it off the road indefinitely so i can stop having to deal with tricking cops into giving me easy defects to clear when i get pulled over - which i'm a pro at now.

for those who have track cars - what advice can you give me? i need a cheap car trailer, where can i hire/buy one for cheap?

i've had bad luck with this car from dodgy built motors (three) to my vipec ECU shitting itself (twice). i just want to drive, i dont want to take it to any workshops anymore - they're all shit.

ideally id like to drop it off at a workshop and play with it after hours. i could use space at my factory complex but its 20mins away and i dont have the patience to move my stuff there.

i've got a fuel system ready to go. hx35 i want to fit. rb2530 i want to freshen up (ill rape the rb25 for now though). i can do all this myself but any advice or help from anyone around bankstown would be sweet :)

cheers

joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423969-full-time-track-car/
Share on other sites
FordyR31 Mentor

FordyR31

Posted
Posted

I dare say if this car has issues sell it on and buy one thats been done properly from the start or buy a stock one and do it yourself from the start. I too have been thinking of not registering my car anymore and having a track car but some things to keep in mind.

How often do you drive the car?

Do you enjoy just starting it up, going for a drive and taking it to club events?

Will you take it to enough events to warrant having a track car?

I personally love driving mine and drive it as often as I please, it isnt a daily so just when I feel. Im not so sure Id track it enough days to get out of my car as much as i do now.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i dont drive it anymore because dodgy blue slips are starting to get expensive and i hardly drove it out. the only benefit would have been to and from events but im not too fussed.

selling it is not an option. beer fridge and tool set are good to go too. my only problem is i cant weld, otherwise i'd have this done.

reliability is something im working on too. id rather adjust the tune for safety over keeping it standard. i might change my mind as i go.

the only problem im having now is the ECU not switching the main relay off after i switch the ignition off. i dont even want to send it back to vipec, a kill switch that does the same thing would do. does anyone know how?

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

You'll need what fatz said....

Then....

Car that can tow 2.5t easily and legally.

(r33 weighs 1400? Trailer will be 500kg min then tools)

my105.com.au have car trailers for sale all the time. I paid 1500 second hand but is built for small gay cars like mine. Rego is 167 a year plus pink slip.

As for car, I do agree with Matt to some point. More stock, longer it'll go! Even fatzseseses GTR with minor bolt ons can do 300 laps of Wakefield with no issues!

If just doing drift/speed off street days I'd just get standard motor, usual oil and intercooler mods, then good brake pads and fluid, some basic coilovers and have some fun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...