Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

some of you know me, most dont but i've been around here for a while figuring out what i want to do with my car. ive taken it off the road indefinitely so i can stop having to deal with tricking cops into giving me easy defects to clear when i get pulled over - which i'm a pro at now.

for those who have track cars - what advice can you give me? i need a cheap car trailer, where can i hire/buy one for cheap?

i've had bad luck with this car from dodgy built motors (three) to my vipec ECU shitting itself (twice). i just want to drive, i dont want to take it to any workshops anymore - they're all shit.

ideally id like to drop it off at a workshop and play with it after hours. i could use space at my factory complex but its 20mins away and i dont have the patience to move my stuff there.

i've got a fuel system ready to go. hx35 i want to fit. rb2530 i want to freshen up (ill rape the rb25 for now though). i can do all this myself but any advice or help from anyone around bankstown would be sweet :)

cheers

joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423969-full-time-track-car/
Share on other sites

I dare say if this car has issues sell it on and buy one thats been done properly from the start or buy a stock one and do it yourself from the start. I too have been thinking of not registering my car anymore and having a track car but some things to keep in mind.

How often do you drive the car?

Do you enjoy just starting it up, going for a drive and taking it to club events?

Will you take it to enough events to warrant having a track car?

I personally love driving mine and drive it as often as I please, it isnt a daily so just when I feel. Im not so sure Id track it enough days to get out of my car as much as i do now.

i dont drive it anymore because dodgy blue slips are starting to get expensive and i hardly drove it out. the only benefit would have been to and from events but im not too fussed.

selling it is not an option. beer fridge and tool set are good to go too. my only problem is i cant weld, otherwise i'd have this done.

reliability is something im working on too. id rather adjust the tune for safety over keeping it standard. i might change my mind as i go.

the only problem im having now is the ECU not switching the main relay off after i switch the ignition off. i dont even want to send it back to vipec, a kill switch that does the same thing would do. does anyone know how?

You'll need what fatz said....

Then....

Car that can tow 2.5t easily and legally.

(r33 weighs 1400? Trailer will be 500kg min then tools)

my105.com.au have car trailers for sale all the time. I paid 1500 second hand but is built for small gay cars like mine. Rego is 167 a year plus pink slip.

As for car, I do agree with Matt to some point. More stock, longer it'll go! Even fatzseseses GTR with minor bolt ons can do 300 laps of Wakefield with no issues!

If just doing drift/speed off street days I'd just get standard motor, usual oil and intercooler mods, then good brake pads and fluid, some basic coilovers and have some fun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...