Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

970021_576035865774792_2131393349_n.jpg
Anyone wanna help me with info on those?

922940_576035959108116_1665024992_n.jpg
Because if they are coming out with the cams to get the head off, I may as well have SOME reference. :-\

580148_576036002441445_1943742012_n.jpg
Aircon pump, bracket, bolts all in good condition, the pump works fine. $50 come get it if you want it. Give ya the condenser for 25 bux too if anyone wants it.

922899_576036032441442_1057438986_n.jpg
OK condition clutch fan.
Free to good home. LOL.


Got to here:
600850_576036042441441_15882812_n.jpg
Before I decided I was gonna pull it all out.
LOL.

>_< D'OH!

OK guys, seeing as I've gotta rip the intake and exhaust off to do the headgasket.

Should I just convert it to a single?

Or seeing as I have the stock head gasket, etc - just chuck the twins back in?

Stay twins, and it's not hard to do in the car, but I highly suggest pulling the sump off too and checking the oil pickup isn't blocked, which means pull the engine ;)

haha, yes.. keep the engine...

Maybe the fond memories of pulling the engine out. :P

Nah gonna yank it anyway, may as well save for an engine stand, and if anyone has an engine crane, feel free to let me know.
Gonna yank the gear box and engine in one hit.
May as well do the clutch and gears at the same time.

The car has been stripped right down to the rad support to get the engine out.
I may as well just unbolt what I can of the rad support.

Gonna have fun re-aligning the front chassis if I bang the donk into it.
LOL

I wanna pull the box and engine out together, It's gonna be hell to get the bell housing bolts undone for me - so I'll drop the crossmember and lift her out.

I realised something thisarvo.
I've pulled almost everything out of the engine bay just to do a headgasket.

DERP.

So, yeah, engine will come out, and box, gonna build 'em and slot them back in.
May have to reassemble the front end a bit while the engine is out - may have to change her storage location in the next year.

Okey doke - all the Alarm systems are completely cut out of the GTR.
All the aircon system is out bar the main cables and heater bar setup.

Pulled everything away from the front of the car so the engine and 'box can be slid forwards to split them.
Just have to disconnect all hoses, plugs etc to be able to yank the donk out.

Gonna need help to put it all back together eventually though.


Anyway.
2 AM, and I need sleepz.

Everything is coming out of the engine bay for a clean and replacement if necessary.

If I wanted to JUST do the head gasket, I would have paid to have it done.

Everything is being stripped back to the metal, I wanna make it all clean, reroute a few things, etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thank you, 100% the intent. New coils were due and the 17" sixers look/feel loads better than the stock wheels. The aero options are so spot on.   Thanks for the warm welcome, all!
    • 98 r34 gtt Been rocking my latest setup and car running like never before. Have put a good 200 miles on it since all the latest changes and additions. everything is dialed in and have been driving it a bunch.   However, all a sudden last weekend as soon as I pushed throttle passed 4k and the engine stumbles, (slow or fast acceleration) hesitates and doesn’t go above 4100 or so, like a misfire. Everything else seems fine. I had a “good” set of coil packs that I removed from car when I first got it when I changed them over to new coils. I swapped out current ones for those, but no change. I also changed the plugs, no change. Seems to rev over 4 when out of gear with no load just fine no “misfire”, but as soon as its in gear with a load of any kind, it “misfires” as soon as rpm drop back below 4 k it runs perfectly, smooth, starts, restarts and drives fine as long as I keep it below 4 k while in gear. All readings look fine, no CEL   Any idea as to what could all a sudden cause an issue when pushing rpms passed 4 k?
    • When you say your cams are 272/262 is that 272in and 262ex?
    • We're arguing semantics. I am saying 45 accel and a 55 deccel ramp are "2 ways". Even a 45 degree ramp and an 89 degree ramp is "2 ways", because it is literally... two ways. The cusco 55/30 ramp is a 2 way. It's two ways. I get it though - in normal nomenclature a "2 way" would be 45/45 or 55/55 or 60/60 i.e the same locking in both directions. And something like 45/65 would be considered "1.5 way". I would then say if we're getting into the nitty gritty then every locking diff is a "2 way" diff and we should not speak in 1.5, or 2 ways but ramp angles instead. Which ofc if one of those ramp angles is 90deg, that side is not doing any locking. :p So Nismo don't obviously sell 3 things. The fact of the matter that they only sell two items really goes to show that there's a 2 way and a "1,5 way" which is really a 1 way. I believe the actual lockup for the 'adjustability' of the GT pro is really just setting preload for when the ramps actually start locking up. It's not changing how much 'wayness' there is. It is (somehow) horribly explained. People just buy whatever diff and go "locks up good bruh" and that's what ends up on socials forever.  
×
×
  • Create New...