Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

970021_576035865774792_2131393349_n.jpg
Anyone wanna help me with info on those?

922940_576035959108116_1665024992_n.jpg
Because if they are coming out with the cams to get the head off, I may as well have SOME reference. :-\

580148_576036002441445_1943742012_n.jpg
Aircon pump, bracket, bolts all in good condition, the pump works fine. $50 come get it if you want it. Give ya the condenser for 25 bux too if anyone wants it.

922899_576036032441442_1057438986_n.jpg
OK condition clutch fan.
Free to good home. LOL.


Got to here:
600850_576036042441441_15882812_n.jpg
Before I decided I was gonna pull it all out.
LOL.

>_< D'OH!

OK guys, seeing as I've gotta rip the intake and exhaust off to do the headgasket.

Should I just convert it to a single?

Or seeing as I have the stock head gasket, etc - just chuck the twins back in?

Stay twins, and it's not hard to do in the car, but I highly suggest pulling the sump off too and checking the oil pickup isn't blocked, which means pull the engine ;)

haha, yes.. keep the engine...

Maybe the fond memories of pulling the engine out. :P

Nah gonna yank it anyway, may as well save for an engine stand, and if anyone has an engine crane, feel free to let me know.
Gonna yank the gear box and engine in one hit.
May as well do the clutch and gears at the same time.

The car has been stripped right down to the rad support to get the engine out.
I may as well just unbolt what I can of the rad support.

Gonna have fun re-aligning the front chassis if I bang the donk into it.
LOL

I wanna pull the box and engine out together, It's gonna be hell to get the bell housing bolts undone for me - so I'll drop the crossmember and lift her out.

I realised something thisarvo.
I've pulled almost everything out of the engine bay just to do a headgasket.

DERP.

So, yeah, engine will come out, and box, gonna build 'em and slot them back in.
May have to reassemble the front end a bit while the engine is out - may have to change her storage location in the next year.

Okey doke - all the Alarm systems are completely cut out of the GTR.
All the aircon system is out bar the main cables and heater bar setup.

Pulled everything away from the front of the car so the engine and 'box can be slid forwards to split them.
Just have to disconnect all hoses, plugs etc to be able to yank the donk out.

Gonna need help to put it all back together eventually though.


Anyway.
2 AM, and I need sleepz.

Everything is coming out of the engine bay for a clean and replacement if necessary.

If I wanted to JUST do the head gasket, I would have paid to have it done.

Everything is being stripped back to the metal, I wanna make it all clean, reroute a few things, etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...