Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.My name is Brendan and this is my R33 build. Starts the same as everyone else's. After an engine failure I decided to get another built and in the meantime started pulling everything apart thinking ill just do this and just do that while the engines out. As one thing leads to another things did get abit out of hand. I'll show you how it all begun.

43FD217E-2028-4D2D-9A32-E2238480A4DE-575

Engine out at home. Previous setup was a 30/25 with a gt3540. Making 400hp

29D0BA9C-3258-48ED-B4E3-D496D04C5000-575

Engine bay all smoothed out.

Next step the car gets sent to sydney for mini tubs, roll cage and chassis mods

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424691-r33-drag-car/
Share on other sites

Bought a set of wheels and tyres. 28 x10.5. Once the guards had been cut out the tyres were hitting on the rear chassis rail. So the standard rails will be pushed in and the boot floor unpicked and replaced with a flat one. Wanted to keep the standard rails as much as factory looking just incase rego goes back on the car.

4D4334DC-07FE-4A3E-91E3-AF1AC61129BB-675

8AD2586A-C622-4A67-A063-9AFC590E0BFD-675

672E7A53-E062-4332-92F6-74C5C4326CE2-675

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424691-r33-drag-car/#findComment-6841431
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Gotta love a nuckin futs drag r33 gtst! Looks awsome so far man. What plans are in mind for the engine bay ?

Nitto 3.2 stroker kit

25 head

Gtx4508R

Nitto oil pump

6 boost manifold

Plazmaman cooler/ TB/fuel rail/plenum

Id2000 mechanical fuel pump

All the good stuff.

869A167F-960B-401D-BB1B-498EFC059202-120

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424691-r33-drag-car/#findComment-6900281
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...