Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I am having an issue with my nissan skyline r33 gtst.

I went to track days few times now and I get loss of power after first 5 laps. Power decreases significantly. At wakefield I can reach 175km/h on straight but after about 5 laps I can reach only 150.

So thats 10-20% power loss.

I assume this is because car is getting too hot.

Mods r34 intercooler, 3'' exhaust turbo back, boost controller 10psi. fuel pump.

-So far I have changed to use different oil from motul 8100xcess (10-40) to castrol edge 10-60.

-I flushed the radiator and put better coolant. I have not flushed the coolant in engine, the damn release screw is ridiculous to get to and unscrew.

-changed AFM, and fuel pump. so def not those and oh boy it drinks alot.

Any recommendations??

i bought the car of friend and he had the coils replaced few yrs back, i have his reciept.

well it has bigger intercooler, but i didnt want get front mount and restrict the radiator.

i suppose i should turn boost down and see if i still get the problem.

i bought the car of friend and he had the coils replaced few yrs back, i have his reciept.

well it has bigger intercooler, but i didnt want get front mount and restrict the radiator.

i suppose i should turn boost down and see if i still get the problem.

dont worry about restricting the radiator.... you have no where near enough power to do that.

my theory is after a few laps of full throttle you ic is getting warm. maybe try a front mount.

depending on the coils he put in they could also be breaking down due to heat.... remove cover if you can to increase air flow.

also if you have apod filter put standard air box back in. same thing happens as with small ic, filter starts sucking in hot air from engine bay and you lose power.

hey, thanks for advice.

i will lower boost to stock boost 6psi for next trackday, to see if it helps. That should show if intercooler is problem.

I removed cover for coils already.

the pod filter is just behind the light so that should get enough cold air in.

Do you think the old coolant in the engine could be the issue?

hey, thanks for advice.

i will lower boost to stock boost 6psi for next trackday, to see if it helps. That should show if intercooler is problem.

I removed cover for coils already.

the pod filter is just behind the light so that should get enough cold air in.

Do you think the old coolant in the engine could be the issue?

nah mate wont be coolant. unless engine is overheating...

that pod filter will not work.... unless you remove the light....

It would most definitely be the little side mount cooler as Paul causing your loss of power.

I remember my XR6 Turbo had the same issue with heat soak and the standard cooler.

As soon as I put a big front mount on it, problem solved.

Lowering the boost will help but then you'll just have that same constant low power.

this.

honestly. buy a standard airbox. alot of guys with nearly 300kw still run them. search if you dont believe me...

Or like mentioned before, remove headlight (easy enough to do in a couple of minutes at a track, a couple of plugs and some nuts), and put a headlight replacement air intake in place (just jap have them) and box off your pod filter. Induction cant get much colder than that.

+1 for heat soak. The 34 cooler might be an ok upgrade for on the street, but they are rubbish for the track. Put it on a dyno and after a few runs power will start to drop substantially. That is where a fmic is an upgrade. It doesn't give you any more power, but it increases how long you have power.

  • 1 month later...

hey guys,

i found what the problem was, too high boost, through my intercooler

i went to trackday on friday @wakefield park , and i lowered the boost from 11psi to 6psi, and this solved the problem. I did 10 laps straight and had no issues with loss of power.

most of time now i do 5 laps, then 1 slow lap, then repeat.

i think r33 has dual stage boost, as it goes up 6psi, but after 4-5krpm it goes up to 10psi, but i didnt have any issues.

anyways thanks for help, and do try wakefield park on weekdays, it was open track all day not many cars at all. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...