Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I came up with pretty much the same numbers, but then thought whats the least you could get away with:

RB20 Block

Bore & Hone block_________________ $140 ok

Crank Grind ______________________$140 Might be able to get away without this

Full balance, rods, crank_____________$100 ok, low?

Balance and shot peen rods (set)_____$150 Leave out

ACL bearing _____________________ $200 ok

Head rebuild, hydraulic tappets_______ $250 Leave out

Basic Port________________________$500 Leave out the porting - still need the chamber work ~$200???

Arias Pistons_____________________$1,600 4AGZE - still not convinced this works tho - $750 new (forged too)

VRS Gasket kit ____________________$250 ok

ARP Rod Bolts ____________________ $480 Necessary? Are RB26 rod bolts use once? When do you need upgraded bolts in rb26's?

Head gasket - metal________________$300??

Bush rod ends suit smaller gudgeon pins$200??? dont really have any idea what this would cost

Now you have to buy a set of GTR Rods _$350 ok, seen a little cheaper

Also a GTR crank____________________$400 ok, seen a little cheaper

gtr Water & Oil pumps________________$800 used rb26 $400 both

Cams_____________________________$800 leave out, or GTR cams ~$300

Then there are things like timing belt, perhaps new idler bearings etc etc. say ~$500 in other spares and consumables

So $3,500-$4,000

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I came up with pretty much the same numbers, but then thought whats the least you could get away with:

RB20 Block

Bore & Hone block_________________ $140 ok

Crank Grind ______________________$140 Might be able to get away without this

Full balance, rods, crank_____________$100 ok, low?

Balance and shot peen rods (set)_____$150 Leave out

ACL bearing _____________________ $200 ok

Head rebuild, hydraulic tappets_______ $250 Leave out

Basic Port________________________$500 Leave out the porting - still need the chamber work ~$200???

Arias Pistons_____________________$1,600 4AGZE - still not convinced this works tho - $750 new (forged too)

VRS Gasket kit ____________________$250 ok

ARP Rod Bolts ____________________ $480 Necessary? Are RB26 rod bolts use once? When do you need upgraded bolts in rb26's?

Head gasket - metal________________$300??

Bush rod ends suit smaller gudgeon pins$200??? dont really have any idea what this would cost

Now you have to buy a set of GTR Rods _$350 ok, seen a little cheaper

Also a GTR crank____________________$400 ok, seen a little cheaper

gtr Water & Oil pumps________________$800 used rb26 $400 both

Cams_____________________________$800 leave out, or GTR cams ~$300

Then there are things like timing belt, perhaps new idler bearings etc etc. say ~$500 in other spares and consumables

So $3,500-$4,000

The basic difference is Roy will find a few dollars in his budget for the odd beer and bourbon, You browny will say, "damm, I didnt budget for that! Gotta go without beer for a week!"

Any big end bolt is use once in the performance world. Well you got me excited Roy... We just bought a house and now I have a base to work on projects! So might try and put together a 2.4 for the local circuit races (Tomie piston kit bout AUD2k). Thats if I dont decide to get a boat! Check the view

Is that a realistic price for Crank / Rods (I have no idea) or would it creep up from there?

TT

Look at those views, i would like to have bought a place around Kurrajong NSW, near the Hawkesbury, but who can afford it, houses have gone up 80% in 3 years...so ill stick with bolting parts on my car.

The price for the rods and crank are prices i commonly see, they go rather cheaply these days, as there is no demand for them. You watch as ppl start bolting GTR cams into their Rb20s the prices start to go up as demand increases, same with ppl that want to rebuild RB20s, for an extra $800 you can have a 2.4L... us poor lowly RB20 owners scrounge for the hand me downs from out bigger brothers

I did a search in the fs section on here, SDU & PF for crank/rods. Prices were generally in the range of $500-700.

I'm really interested to know if the 4AGZE pistons will work easily. The bore is fine (1mm OS gives 82mm) but what about gudgeon pin location?

I need RB20 conrod length & piston crown height so I can work out where it would all sit in the block.

I agree with Roys comment regarding supply & demand. As soon as there is a thread where someone starts explaining how an oem part can be used as a cheap upgrade the prices start to jump. RB25 turbos seem to be a lot more expensive now.

very cool thread, has got me fired up waiting for my car to arrive!

i bought an r31 gts-x with the 2.4 tomei kit fitted (rb26 crank and rods) and KKK K27 turbo, has all the support mods like aftermarket intake, GTR injectors, trust high mount manifold and wastegate, oil cooler, hks ecu, fmic etc etc.

thats about all the mods i know of, as soon as it gets here i'll be throwing it on the dyno to see what it makes and how responsive it is but thats about a month away. was actually thinking i'd remove 6 of the 12 injectors and chuck a wolf plugin or remapped stocky on when it gets here as the hks ecu will be tough to find tuners for and i'm pretty sure i'll be able to run it fine without the 6 extra injectors.

if like you guys say it costs over 6000 to do the build properly then seems i got a bargain (payed $5000 for the whole car) :)

R31 was where I started, to build a classic Targa Car, but then the R31 GT® like the hot model was ¥500,000 so we ended with the HCR32.

I have just done a deal on a crank... Have to go to South Korea later in the year, will go via Japan and get rest of bits. Just hope the AUD holds up...

Thanks for talking me into it Roy!

TT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...