Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I have a issue with my stagea concerning the loss of power., possibly in some sort of LIMP mode?

Car: Stagea C34 1999 model RS4S manual

Mods: Standard turbo, Large front mount intercooler, 12 PSI boost, POD filter & NISTUNE ECU, CAT back 3inch exhaust.. nothing over the top. She is a good tow car !!

Scenario: Driving to work the other day gave the car a boot full to get around some cars, The car during hard acceleration had a massive hesitation ( similar to bouncing off rev limiter) then backfired. I lifted off quickly and then from then on the car has had no power or even very little boost.

It will very slowing accelerate to speed and you can here it labouring ( But not missing or poping or pinging).

Car idles nicely every thing works.. no engine light ... i am also able to rev the with no load and it will rev to 6k to 7k no problem.

No oil leaks,

No blue smoke out of the exhaust.

Engine is idling beautifully sits on 900 rpm rock solid.

everything under the bonnet looks ok.!!!! :wacko:

Things i have tried:

Did a full ECU check using the consult port and it gave me code 55 - meaning no problem found with ECU.

Disconnect battery for a couple of hrs then reconnected to no eval.

I checked all of the hose's including turbo piping to see if something is blown off.. nothing found

I checked Air flow meter for damage but nothing looks bad. I even disconnected the airflow while the motor was running and it started to hunt then die hence i am thinking air flow meter is OK.

What to try next?

Is there a possibility of a blown turbo?

Can there be a ignition issue?

Can there be other sensors but surely that would cause the ECU to give a problem code??

Co lapsed Cat?

Help would be appreciated!

Rotaron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425361-stagea-c34-lost-power-limp-mode/
Share on other sites

Well 9 times out of 10 those symptoms describe a pop-ed off or split intake pipe. The other time it is a blown turbo :( You really need to pull the dump pipe off to check the rear turbo wheel if you can't find a split hose, or maybe just check in the front of the cat....

Can the AFM still be stuffed if it doesn't look physically damaged? And if it is stuffed then why does it idle so nicely? Surely the AFM would make it hunt or idle very poorly.

I also have new theroy:

Blown exhaust wheel off turbo shaft... hence no real boost? Looks like i will be taking off front part of exhaust to check for rear turbine has delaminated off the shaft. if it has it will be sitting next to the CAT. :woot:

Hi lads

Confirmed it on the weekend when i pulled it out. Exhaust impeller blown to million pieces and wait for it .................. front compressor impeller blown in a million pieces as well :wacko: :wacko: :wacko: intercooler was full of broken bits. Cleaned everything out on the weekend with the hot high pressure spray hose at the servo.

Hence i just dropped the turbo off today to hypergear for high flow job. He is in Campbellfield.

Link here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/

:yes: :yes: :yes: :yes:

Now i have ordered the new nissan tubo gaskits.

And i am after new fuel pump and injectors to suit the new turbo. Any suggestions... remember this is a street car.

Then off to get re-nistuned at the Dyno.

Not happy that it has happened but i am using this as a excuse to put some extra goodies into the car. Dont want to go stupid as it is still a daily driver / tow car for the race car.

Hence talking with the guy at Hypergear he advised that it will be nice and streetable with good low response but still have a good top end as well with his high flow job that he does. :rolleyes:

Walbro 255lph seems to be a straight forward install on the stagea. And seeings thought its your daily that will be enough for what you need.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/323722-stagea-walbro-pump-fitting-guide/

As for injectors Deatchwerks plug in with no mods, no rewiring needed. They are decently priced as well.

New High flow turbo went in on the weekend.. All running well now. Have to baby it until i get the pump and injectors sorted out then get it Dyno tuned.

I gave it a light load squirt around the block with no issues's.

Certainly sounds different when it spools up...but turbo still seems nice and responsive... Time will tell when i get it all dyno'd :yes: :yes:

  • 4 weeks later...

sorry for starting up an old one again but i just want to ask when putting the highflow on did you have to get the tune and suppoting mods straiight away?

or can you just run it for as long as you want till you can afford supporting mods?

If you keep the boost low enough, like 7 psi, you should be able to drive it around ok, off boost should be fine. The ecu will definitely need a tune though, make sure you change the plugs for the tune as they will be fouled.

Sorry Rotaron, I should have mentioned I can help you out with prices on injectors and pump if needed, but I assume you are sorted by now...

Well i be telling the truth when i say that i haven't had a chance to get it Dyno'd.... Just been to busy. racing my other car and plenty of work and home project on the go.

I have got the boost set at stock levels and it drives great.... Stagea towed my race car to the island no problem last weekend.

Also got my self some injectors and a new oxy sensor as well.

Still need to get the fuel pump as i havent had a chance to get that one sorted yet .

Then it is off to get it Dyno'd... hopefully in the next couple of weeks.

It all comes down to time. :wacko: :wacko: :wacko: :wacko:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...