Jump to content
SAU Community

Time For A New Turbo

black25t

By black25t,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

black25t Contributor

black25t

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, im sure this has been covered a hundred times before, but im looking at upgrading my turbo and am looking for around 300kw at the rears. I have an pfc, z32 afm and 550 or 600cc injectors (not sure, bought them off a mate and he cant remember) and a walbro intank all waiting to go on. I want sumhing with good response, but a little bit of lag doesnt worry me. I have a ffp (fitted) and high mount manifold also, so external gate is fine. And i will be getting it tuned after the turbo amd everything else is fitted. All proper help would be greatly appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425377-time-for-a-new-turbo/
Share on other sites
Daza33 Contributor

Daza33

Posted
Posted

Check out Hypergear (on this forum). I have an ATR43G3 that has been dyno tested to over 300rwkw, however i think they have made more responsive turbos with greater power potential since i bought mine.

Otherwise Garret 3076r seems to be a popular choice as well

Trex Grand Master

Trex

Posted
Posted

Finding information about turbos for a newb is very hard.

With so many turbos on the market and most of them with the same generic ID it's really hard to find information.

If people started to post the name of the manufacturer and turbo ID, life would be easier and you wouldn't have so many turbo threads.

Also we need boost and nm torque dyno sheets, kw's mean nothing without the other supporting information that tells you how it will drive.

the hypergear atr43g2.5 has 50nm & 20kw & 2psi more than the hypergear atr43g3 at 3000rpm

Or is the way i read dyno graphs wrong?

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

I assume you are just looking for some thing bolton to stock manifold and dump. If that is the case you can run our latest SS2 and G3 RB25 dump internally gated units. The 98 graphs from our site are old, Unfortunately all of our latest turbos and ideas was tested on E85. So best to check out the E85 results, and take 40kws off top to estimate 98 result.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...