Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gt-T Dump Pipe Install + Feedback

neopowered34
 Share

Recommended Posts

neopowered34 Collaborator

neopowered34

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys/Girls

So last week I was checking out the exhaust setup on my R34 and it was just a simple HKS Catback, since I had ordered a turbotech boost controller I decided it would be a good idea to help the car breath better and open up the rest so I went ahead and purchased a KLS stainless steel turbo-cat dump pipe from Ebay. $235 posted. - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/230881892110?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

There are numerous options ranging from $150 up to 600+ when purchasing this however I liked this one because a) it was reasonably priced for a stainless steel one and b) it had the 2-1 flow from at the top of the flange. I got it installed into my car today (another $200) and I wanted to share so you guys can make informed decisions on your setups.

As the guys at the shop told me the dump pipe normally adds a slight increase in boost response due to the more open flow and bolting directly onto the stock turbo this is a good for those not wanting to run an aftermarket/custom setup. On the drive home I didn't notice any power difference at all, and the sound still remains the same. The guys told me I was losing about 40% flow due to my OEM cat been nearly stuffed so with that in mind I have found a Xforce stainless steel for $195 posted. Will be ordering next paycheque to complete my full system! Hopefully, combining that with my new dump pipe it will see a slight increase, I do feel allot happier running 10psi with a much more open system. I will post results from my new cat when I get my hands on it, hopefully in a week or so....

It should be noted that the dump pipe fits fine but came up just short so the guys had to make a small bend to connect to the cat, otherwise is all ok with the OXY sensor etc. If I get a chance ill throw some pictures up tomorrow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425697-r34-gt-t-dump-pipe-install-feedback/
Share on other sites
neopowered34 Collaborator

neopowered34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Be aware that if you do not have programmable management that the boost will possibly rise when you change the cat and the car will probably go into R&R and be slow. You'll probably need to dial back the boost to get it working again.

Nah shouldn't rise when its on a manual boost controller and running 10psi, all I'm doing is freeing it up a bit, not really enough to worry the standard ecu. Its running very nicely as it is

neopowered34 Collaborator

neopowered34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah thats ok, by freeing up the exhausts it'd be lucky to rise close to 1psi if that. Was running 7 with the catback and no MBC. Will post results when I throw the cat in and see how it responds

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Yeah thats ok, by freeing up the exhausts it'd be lucky to rise close to 1psi if that. Was running 7 with the catback and no MBC. Will post results when I throw the cat in and see how it responds

What are you basing that statement on about the boost rise? I'm going to assume not from experience....... Anyway, you will soon find out.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Nah shouldn't rise when its on a manual boost controller and running 10psi, all I'm doing is freeing it up a bit, not really enough to worry the standard ecu. Its running very nicely as it is

Mine rose to 12psi when I did the full turbo back exhaust. It definitely rises when you get it all breathing well.

neopowered34 Collaborator

neopowered34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ran it today on the stock gauge and it was about 13psi so I've brought it back to about 10-11 according to stock gauge. I have a turbo smart gauge I could test with as well but got tired of trying to find a place in the firewall to run a hose through. If I get a tune the only mods I have are the exhaust and MBC so what would the advantage be? And I'm not really up for an expensive aftermarket computer as my next mods down the track will be a front mount and that's probably it (daily driver). Can you tune the stock ECU and do I really need to?

neopowered34 Collaborator

neopowered34

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah I have they plug into stock ecu yeah like a piggyback? What does an average tune cost with one of those?

By biggest concern is the tune going bad, car getting idling problems, air cond not working properly or something factory not working because of aftermarket ecu.

Edited by neopowered34
neopowered34 Collaborator

neopowered34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds like my next mod is gonna be a Nistune! What about knock sensor, I was reading a forum before saying that programmable ecu's can cause the knock sensor to fail, are there ANY downsides to putting one in that will affect the little things in my car from operating as per factory spec? And what about my inkectors they are only stock

neopowered34 Collaborator

neopowered34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it's also cheap, $550 with a software licence and instalation, 1k with a tune but nil licence, how much is Link, Power FC, Adaptronic?

There's a guy in Melbourne offering Supply + Fit + Tune for R34 $840!! Too bad I'm in QLD :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AdiR34
      Fender flare widths across front/back of car

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • GTSBoy
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • dbm7
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...