Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Completed fitting the tomei sump baffle today. To my surprise, the holes that needed to be drilled according to the instructions were already there!

So I got my money back from Bunnings for the 400mm long drill bit that I bought just for this!

20130702_133639_zps80ef2442.jpg

20130702_154829_zps6d5269aa.jpg

20130702_181222_zps8edef463.jpg

20130702_164516_zpsd3cd926c.jpg

20130702_164458_zpsb488a3dc.jpg

Also cleaned the intercooler today...should have the clutch on tomorrow as well given that my friend can drop off the input shaft for me.

Weather is looking pretty crap for the end of the week so might not be able to get the engine in before the end of the week as the car sits outside :(

Updates and photos are becoming few and far between but progress has been good.

As per last post, the intercooler has been cleaned and plenty of coolant and oil came out of it with now only clear water running out which is a good sign.

Which also means everything that was connected to it suffered the same fate.

20130704_190518_zpsba4fb543.jpg

20130705_161906_zpsf647241f.jpg

bovs after a clean

20130705_175859_zps517e094d.jpg

Religiously cleaned ready to be put back on

20130705_184513_zpsd7d22161.jpg

20130708_140657_zps8d3c5d36.jpg

20130708_140705_zpsaaca381b.jpg

20130708_140711_zps5e968bf3.jpg

20130708_140719_zps5e86789c.jpg

Genuine Nissan left, Ryco right

20130708_162758_zpsc884e48d.jpg

971353_10151582202443031_1751186265_n.jp3

20130709_134734_zps3feaf281.jpg

And the engine is now all bolted in, most of the loom all plugged up (correctly I hope), starter motor in, all that's left is the minor stuff. Let's hope for no more hiccups and a smooth sail start up by tomorrow night! Fingers crossed!

Unfortunately there was a bit of a problem...

Filled the thing up with fluids and water in the radiator. Noticed a leak and turned out to be turbo water lines

There's no way of me getting it tight enough on the engine so theyre coming back out to check all the banjos

are tight as a nun's you know what.

Unfortunately there was a bit of a problem...

Filled the thing up with fluids and water in the radiator. Noticed a leak and turned out to be turbo water lines

There's no way of me getting it tight enough on the engine so theyre coming back out to check all the banjos

are tight as a nun's you know what.

this is the very reason why I chose to replace the oem water and oil lines with braided lines.

ANDDDD turbos back on! So the banjos were hand tight only, must've slipped my mind to tighten them after installing onto the engine. Nothing is leaking now and tomorrow will be the start up day if nothing else happens touchwood!

So got the roadworthy no worries and just been doing little bits and pieces here and there now before I can chuck all the other stuff on after VicRoads tomorrow :D

My friend came over and took some better quality shots of my car for me so here they are!

1074457_10201203791150010_832162693_o.jp

1077878_10201203790229987_1841301106_o.j

202652_10201203784509844_1390677156_o.jp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...