Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

R33 GTR

Nismo 1.2mm metal head gasket

Racepace cam gears, but not yet adjusted

Garrett -9's with 1 bar actuators

Nismo fuel pump (rewired)

Mine's front pipe

3" test pipe

3.5" Tomei Ti Expreme

Greddy Profec B spec 2 (disconnected)

17psi on standard ecu

20130905_152938_zpsd514b210.jpg

Soon to be added: PFC, ID1000, Z32 AFM, E85

R31Nismoid claims 280rwkw on 18psi @ Racepace dyno with his stock ecu.

To be honest I was expecting much less though - around 250rwkw.

I would not be surprised if it were to read lower on a dyno dynamics roller dyno.

Point of my dyno check was to ensure AFR is safe, timing is accurate and no knocking - all of which were achieved.

Also I'm very glad to report that there is very minimal boost drop from the Garrett 1 bar actuators with only a small amount of preload wound in.

Reaches a maximum of 17psi at 4,000rpm and does not drop below 16psi all the way till redline.

When it gets tuned, I will get the cam gears dialed in and reattach the boost controller to keep the gates shut for as long as possible.

Looking forward to some good improvements in the response department.

I'm not a doubter because I have no clue about these things but I just haven't seen it before so I was amazed.

Keep up the good work though and as long as the AFR's are sweet and you're happy then that's all that matters

Nah, I'm talking about Grant, cos I know he had his old 33 gtr tuned by Trent and got a little over 300kw on the same dyno with similar mods and he had PFC.

To settle any doubts, I think it seems like quite a normal figure. Although peak power is quite similar, you can see where the gains are with the car properly tuned.

50Nm difference in peak torque. Reaches almost exactly the same spot (Approx 4200rpm)

80kw vs 95kw @ 3000rpm

190kw vs 210kw @ 4000rpm

220kw vs 265kw @ 5000rpm

260kw vs 300kw @ 6000rpm

If Grant doesn't mind I'm happy to post his graph or he can so people have something to compare with.

Or it can be found in the RB26 dyno results thread anyway

Unregistered Dark Blue 34 GTT on way to Vicroads - don't worry, it's registered now.

Congrats! Didn't spot you sorry, maybe I was too busy focusing on make do GPS and rushing to get to Trent's cos was running late

Congrats! Didn't spot you sorry, maybe I was too busy focusing on make do GPS and rushing to get to Trent's cos was running late

No stress, with that colour, it'd blend right in traffic anyway!

Fatz, he's talking about my first 33r with GT-SS's not the last one.

Michael, post them up, btw I didn't doubt you. Just found it interesting that you achieved with standard ecu.

Probably says about your motor being healthy - I was told mine had low compression in cyl 2, didn't know of it until I enquired about buying motor/box back. No idea how long the cyl 2 were down for, never done a compression test on cars I buy :/

Grant, nothing unhealthy with that figure at all. As you can see, by 5000rpm you're up by a massive 45kw.

Don't think you mentioned cam gears either in that recipe. Obviously some more gains to be had in the mid range.

That along with E85 would have been pretty damn quick setup. Also you didn't have fuel pump, injectors or afms upgraded which would have been the limiting factor to push any further.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...