Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Completed fitting the tomei sump baffle today. To my surprise, the holes that needed to be drilled according to the instructions were already there!

So I got my money back from Bunnings for the 400mm long drill bit that I bought just for this!

20130702_133639_zps80ef2442.jpg

20130702_154829_zps6d5269aa.jpg

20130702_181222_zps8edef463.jpg

20130702_164516_zpsd3cd926c.jpg

20130702_164458_zpsb488a3dc.jpg

Also cleaned the intercooler today...should have the clutch on tomorrow as well given that my friend can drop off the input shaft for me.

Weather is looking pretty crap for the end of the week so might not be able to get the engine in before the end of the week as the car sits outside :(

Updates and photos are becoming few and far between but progress has been good.

As per last post, the intercooler has been cleaned and plenty of coolant and oil came out of it with now only clear water running out which is a good sign.

Which also means everything that was connected to it suffered the same fate.

20130704_190518_zpsba4fb543.jpg

20130705_161906_zpsf647241f.jpg

bovs after a clean

20130705_175859_zps517e094d.jpg

Religiously cleaned ready to be put back on

20130705_184513_zpsd7d22161.jpg

20130708_140657_zps8d3c5d36.jpg

20130708_140705_zpsaaca381b.jpg

20130708_140711_zps5e968bf3.jpg

20130708_140719_zps5e86789c.jpg

Genuine Nissan left, Ryco right

20130708_162758_zpsc884e48d.jpg

971353_10151582202443031_1751186265_n.jp3

20130709_134734_zps3feaf281.jpg

And the engine is now all bolted in, most of the loom all plugged up (correctly I hope), starter motor in, all that's left is the minor stuff. Let's hope for no more hiccups and a smooth sail start up by tomorrow night! Fingers crossed!

Unfortunately there was a bit of a problem...

Filled the thing up with fluids and water in the radiator. Noticed a leak and turned out to be turbo water lines

There's no way of me getting it tight enough on the engine so theyre coming back out to check all the banjos

are tight as a nun's you know what.

Unfortunately there was a bit of a problem...

Filled the thing up with fluids and water in the radiator. Noticed a leak and turned out to be turbo water lines

There's no way of me getting it tight enough on the engine so theyre coming back out to check all the banjos

are tight as a nun's you know what.

this is the very reason why I chose to replace the oem water and oil lines with braided lines.

ANDDDD turbos back on! So the banjos were hand tight only, must've slipped my mind to tighten them after installing onto the engine. Nothing is leaking now and tomorrow will be the start up day if nothing else happens touchwood!

So got the roadworthy no worries and just been doing little bits and pieces here and there now before I can chuck all the other stuff on after VicRoads tomorrow :D

My friend came over and took some better quality shots of my car for me so here they are!

1074457_10201203791150010_832162693_o.jp

1077878_10201203790229987_1841301106_o.j

202652_10201203784509844_1390677156_o.jp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Something I meant to say when we were chatting the other night about having an open trailer floor being great to work on a car, but you've never used the feature... It's a great place to park a car after doing suspension component changes, and do the tightening of all the bushes with the car sitting at full ride height. Especially when you don't have a 4 post hoist!
    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
×
×
  • Create New...