Jump to content
SAU Community

What Is 'too Much' Power For The Street?  

74 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I haven't seen a thread like this before and I'm also curious myself.

What would you call too much power at the wheels in a car to be stupid, and undriveable on the road environment for a daily driver?

This post is directed at Skylines (32-34).

Post in KiloWatts (kW).

Edited by Qorx

All depends on the car.. A 400rwkw Silvia is alot more silly than a 400awkw GTR.

Perfect daily street car would be a mild low 300kw GTR (-7s or -9s). Standard looking engine bay, relatively reliable, mid - high 11s quater mile on street tyres and not all that expensive to build. Once you wind up the power things tend to go bang..

In saying that low 300's does get boring :rofl:

Edited by nomnomv8

Modified my main post a little bit to be a bit more specific. I'd probably have my daily around 500-600 so it is good for track as well as the road and won't need 2 cars.

#@nomnomv8 - I sent you a PM regarding something, check it and reply. :)

Edited by Qorx

You much power its driveability..there is nothing wrong with 700kw in a rear wheel drive if you

1. Know how to drive

2.can make that much power and still have an engine that is easy to drive.

Often though it will end up a pig motor because big cams, you much lag etc making it uncomfortable to use on the street...but if you can make it with nice low down torque and an easy throttle the limits are endless..there's is plenty of 1000hp plus street cars out there that are RWD...actually I'd say the majority of them are, very few of them are what you would consider a daily though...But you don't need an extra diff, just big sticky rear tyres. ;)

I've been running 360 for quite a while in RWD and recently cracked 391... You can't use the power on the street as there is too much risk with cops etc these days so in saying that it's nice to cruise around in as it drives like stock! Mine is nice and responsive around town so the speed limit can be reached quickly :ph34r:

Btw, why is there no "100kw" option.. Because my Ute hasn't even got 100kws atw and it breaks the speed limit all the time...and because there is no weight in the back it can light up 4th at 80kms In the wet, does this mean i have "too much power"

This thread is dumb and I feel dumb for posting here :down:

What about them?

Matt stop bragging about your power already. :P

Lol NO :P

And no, there is no set power figure that is too much for a GTR, at the end of the day it's all about the drivers right foot and ONCE you go past a certain power level the car starts becoming a serious bit of gear and it's only a matter of time until you are defected or arrested lol

What's with all this AWD bullshit...most 1000hp+ street cars are RWD...I guarantee it...

There is no such thing as too much power, only too much pressure applied to the power pedal ;)

Yeh most 1000hp+ "Street Cars" (if thats what you can even call them...) are RWD but then again most 1000hp "street cars" would get annihilated off the set of lights by a standard falcon..

I agree with you comment on pressure applied to the gas pedal but this loses its argument when you start talking high end applications where the car becomes a slug in most normal driving conditions (not on full boost) no matter how hard you press the pedal...

High powered AWD you can put you foot down flat stick and know it will put the power down (mostly anyways), RWD you put your foot down and very quickly you start backing off as your rear end starts trailing and chugging smoke. Heck Ive sat in my mates datto when hes loaded up the stallie rolling at 90kmh and the second it lets go hold the fark on cause your skating all over the place.. Fun but not exactly ideal !

What's your definition of street? If it's daily peak hour and cruising your better off being off boost and having a compliant clutch. Then you can have any power level you want because you will never use it. Clutch is the big thing though or you will get over it very quickly. Getting off the lights quick will be just a matter of knowing your car and even at partial boost you will still be quicker that anything else on the road and no wheel spin.

Edited by XGTRX

What's your definition of street? If it's daily peak hour and cruising your better off being off boost and having a compliant clutch. Then you can have any power level you want because you will never use it. Clutch is the big thing though or you will get over it very quickly. Getting off the lights quick will be just a matter of knowing your car and even at partial boost you will still be quicker that anything else on the road and no wheel spin.

Agreed on the clutch topic, I chose the JB single which can take all sorts of power levels but can drive like a normal clutch in most cases...

yeah i think there's no such thing as too much power for the street... :woot:

it all depends on ur driving style and tune.. and your personal comfort level. I used a 500nm S13 with twin plate clutch as a daily...didnt bother me much although friends said it was too harsh and noisy for their taste..

2.can make that much power and still have an engine that is easy to drive.

Agreed.

Clutch, cams and brakes annoy me the most for street driving on a heavily modified car.

I know people who have sold high-powered cars for even weekend-only driving because you cant have fun in it driving around the 'burbs. Hit boost in 2nd and you're already speeding and stuck behind people. A friend of mine sold his 420kw MA70 supra just because he couldnt have sensible fun in it without major repurcussions. "Bring on an NA" he said.

2.can make that much power and still have an engine that is easy to drive.

Agreed.

 

Clutch, cams and brakes annoy me the most for street driving on a heavily modified car.

 

I know people who have sold high-powered cars for even weekend-only driving because you cant have fun in it driving around the 'burbs. Hit boost in 2nd and you're already speeding and stuck behind people. A friend of mine sold his 420kw MA70 supra just because he couldnt have sensible fun in it without major repurcussions. "Bring on an NA" he said.

NA cars are no better if there not set up right.

I have both and a hi stalled cammed LS2 is great to drive in peak hour because the torque is low below 2500rpm. My 33 gtr is also great because torque is delivered progressively up to about 3500. At 4000 in the NA where the converter flashes to and from 3500 in the 33 all hell breaks loose ha ha. Just the way I like it. Both need to be driven with light progressive throttle in traffic. Both brilliant allrounders.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...