Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Sau's

So over the long weekend i had picked up another GTR R32 for a good price... i thought it would be a good idea just to drive around in a std GTR until mine was finished with my court proceedings..

so after owning the car for 26hours the motor decided to let go on me :( my misses was taking it for a drive at the time when the car sounded like it let something go and just turned off..

after trying to get the car to start again i checked the oil (i know i should of checked this before) but i was planning on servicing the car the next day before driving it again.. i had notice it was low

now i have no idea what could be wrong but i assume the worst either the timing belts gone or its spun a bearing.. i know you can't tell what wrong without looking at it but i want peoples thoughts on what is the cheapest way to get this car going again as i dont want to be stuck with 2 GTR's that dont work :(

should i bother gettting it looked at or fine a replacement motor???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426790-bought-myself-another-gtr-problem/
Share on other sites

what would a second hand head on a rb26 cost tho?

I've heard so many of these stories where people buy 32 gtrs and 2 weeks later theve spun bearings. There notorious for there oil pump problems and being such an old car, I would be reluctant t take the risk on one, unless it was rebuilt not to long ago...maybe that's why u got at the "bargain price" u did

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...