Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$70 for the 12 yo. Is the 16 yo twice as good?

well that's difficult to answer, it depends on your palate, buy the 12yo and if you like that then go for the bottle of 16

Just got one to try out first. Hopefully it goes down well - I'll find out soon enough. Review looks great but I'll watch it after I taste it first so I'm not prejudiced. Thanks heaps for the link though!

  • Like 1

this guy is a bit cheesy but is quite accurate in his reviews...

http://youtu.be/gH8xeWkoOrM

Ralfy is a legend.......I have seen most of vids and can describe the quality of various SMW including other spirits so that most can easily understand.

Also, Tony how do you describe anCnoc 12yo and what do you rate it outa 10?

Description: Yummy!

Out of 10: Price: 8

Quality: 7

Value for money 9/10

It's really good considering that it's only $70!

The problem that I''ve had with it is that I haven't had a proper sit down tasting. Been rushed every time. :(

Description: Yummy!

Out of 10: Price: 8

Quality: 7

Value for money 9/10

It's really good considering that it's only $70!

The problem that I''ve had with it is that I haven't had a proper sit down tasting. Been rushed every time. :(

good stuff.

May have to give it a go.

U need to find time to really enjoy such prestigious moments to truly unravel what each dram is like.......which I know is very hard to have when your busy

One Whisky I highly recommend is Highland Park 12yo

The most northernest Scottish distillery which has truly wonderful and rather unique flavours compared to other mainland SMW distilleries.

It's a available at DM for less than $70 and is truly a hit for people that enjoy a fine Havana due to its smokiness, honey heather, and sweetness that lasts and lasts.......just beautiful

Did I mention it also happens to be rated a 90/100 at the WWA!

Try it before you die.

I will be back to give some feedback on other SMW

Funny you say that. I've been eyeing off the highland park but saw it for 150 at dm. Wrong one?

that one would be its 18yo brother aka 'the best spirit in the world'.................................................and I kind of have to agree with that statement. I will elaborate on that in more detail later

I have 3 bottles of it at home. A classic one and two modern ones (they are the same really, with the exception of the bottle shape - however I do think there is a subtle difference in flavour which may just be due to its processing maturity)

Dalwhinnie, Old Pulteney, and Glengoyne are worth a try especially if you're not after a heavy smokey peated flavour.

need to see if I can get some miniature of theses - really hard to find them here in Oz

Gave the New Zealand double wood 12yr a go the other day and not too bad at all very smooth.

Also a special mention to the redskin vodka. Bottle of vodka throw a few redskins in lid on and in the dishwasher for a cycle then in the freezer for a cool down. Very easy drinking!

Gave the New Zealand double wood 12yr a go the other day and not too bad at all very smooth.

Also a special mention to the redskin vodka. Bottle of vodka throw a few redskins in lid on and in the dishwasher for a cycle then in the freezer for a cool down. Very easy drinking!

Had a mate who did it with skittles. He was anal and would separate the colours and then he'd have a few bottles of vodka all in different colours. Bishes loved it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...