Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had e boost, never again, HKS EVC

You generally get what you pay for

Not always true, I had a HKS EVC and it was the most unreliable POS on the planet, it was replaced by the Greddy and the car now has a better boost curve...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6892086
Share on other sites

Not always true, I had a HKS EVC and it was the most unreliable POS on the planet, it was replaced by the Greddy and the car now has a better boost curve...

That's right thats why I said generally, I have two EVCs now ( 4 & 5 ) and never had an issue, but both came up at good prices when I needed something, so either I've had a good run or your one had an issue, who knows but I know I'd wouldn't ever go the e boost, I spent hours setting up and CRD tried and no matter what we did it wouldn't catch how quick the 32 came on boost, fitted the EVC and with no setting it up had no more problems, been in car for 8-9 years so far

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6892206
Share on other sites

eBoost = great, but overpriced considering it's is just using a MAC valve

Profec = great, decent is price, uses the same MAC valve as most controllers

EVC = awesome, stepper motor holds boost well

Blitz Dual Spec-R = awesome, dual solenoid holds boost so flat you could put a ruler on it

Turbosmart Dual stage = junk, awesome spike

Turbosmart Single stage = junk, awesome spike

,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6893160
Share on other sites

A mate had plenty of issues with the original series, in saying that i believe the retard tuner was partially to blame!

That's right thats why I said generally, I have two EVCs now ( 4 & 5 ) and never had an issue, but both came up at good prices when I needed something, so either I've had a good run or your one had an issue, who knows but I know I'd wouldn't ever go the e boost, I spent hours setting up and CRD tried and no matter what we did it wouldn't catch how quick the 32 came on boost, fitted the EVC and with no setting it up had no more problems, been in car for 8-9 years so far

Yep i know a few that swear by them hence my purchase, as usual i am just unlucky lol

ive noticed alot of people running greddy profec ebc's are they way to go, hold boost like they should?

Yep, do the job fine! Work well on my car!

eBoost = great, but overpriced considering it's is just using a MAC valve

Profec = great, decent is price, uses the same MAC valve as most controllers

EVC = awesome, stepper motor holds boost well

Blitz Dual Spec-R = awesome, dual solenoid holds boost so flat you could put a ruler on it

Turbosmart Dual stage = junk, awesome spike

Turbosmart Single stage = junk, awesome spike

,

:laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6893172
Share on other sites

^ true story, my 180 came with one, first mod was to remove it and sell it. Then my current shitbox came with one, removed it the first day I got the car, and sold it on eBay.

Biggest croc of shit on the planet, essentially it's just a pos bleed valve with a solenoid to enable the bleed or not.. total shit, however their external gates are good. They should stop making boost controllers LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6893203
Share on other sites

^ true story, my 180 came with one, first mod was to remove it and sell it. Then my current shitbox came with one, removed it the first day I got the car, and sold it on eBay.

Biggest croc of shit on the planet, essentially it's just a pos bleed valve with a solenoid to enable the bleed or not.. total shit, however their external gates are good. They should stop making boost controllers LOL

A gate technically controls boost, so therefore would be a boost controller? :blink::laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6893206
Share on other sites

thanks for your advise guys appreciate it. I'm thinking i might go with the Greddy ebc that option seems good value for cost.

I have researched before but it is easier to ask the question and get direct answers instead of sifting through junk on the net.

thanks for the help matt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6893868
Share on other sites

thanks for your advise guys appreciate it. I'm thinking i might go with the Greddy ebc that option seems good value for cost.

I have researched before but it is easier to ask the question and get direct answers instead of sifting through junk on the net.

thanks for the help matt.

You should be right with the Greddy...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6893897
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...