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Nm35 Diffs - Open Or Lsd?

MrStabby

By MrStabby,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
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If you have HICAS, then it's LSD. Most likely is AR-X models, however the lucky few have it as an option on the Rs/Rx.

The throttle reset is tricky to get right. Go through from the begging, ecu reset, throttle position learn, and then idle learn.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I'm giving the stag some love this weekend - will be cleaning throttle body (idle reset procedure didnt work, idles at 1400 in N), doing fluids in transmission, attessa and diffs. Do the diffs require LSD fluid?

Cleaning the throttle will only make it worse, make sure there are no vac leaks (the PCV hose is a common culprit) and no engine lights as it doesn't set the idle with an error present.

Change the transfer case fluid too. ;)

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

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Cleaning the throttle will only make it worse, make sure there are no vac leaks (the PCV hose is a common culprit) and no engine lights as it doesn't set the idle with an error present.

Change the transfer case fluid too. ;)

Oh - I read some posts on other forums where cleaning the throttle body helped get the idle reset to work. I'll pull it apart and have a look, but i'll be much more cautious after what you've said. Will the check engine light be on in normal driving if i have an error?

I sprayed aerostart on a few hose ends but didnt get any flaring, so couldn't find a leak that way. There is vacuum at idle, so if there's a leak its not huge.

For me attessa = transfer case, so that's in the list. Might do power steering fluid while im at it.

PN-MAD - I went through "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" and "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" first - is that what u mean or is ECU reset different?

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
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Yeah, that's what I meant.

It's pretty obvious when it does the idle learn. When hot, it revs up to 1800 rpm, then drops to the point it almost stalls, then goes back up to 600-650 and steadys. It can be hard to nail the timing, but it does work.

Last resort is get Nissan to do it with consult.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

So I think I worked out why my M35 keeps throwing the code 1320. I took the coil packs off to change the plugs and half of the plugs were covered in oil on the outside. The tubes look like the seals are leaking and oil is getting past the O rings in the rocker covers.

Has anyone else experienced this? And where would i get rocker cover gaskets and the o rings.

Yes, it's very common.

But oil is an insulator, so shouldn't effect the coil packs. There is two ways of sealing. First buy whole new rocker covers. The seals are integrated. Or, two, try copper seal or something similar on the rocker covers to try to seal them.

Btw, wrong thread?

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

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FYI - got the idle procedure to work - now idles at just over 600, and is completely smooth. Much better. Hopefully ill get more than ~300kms a tank now.... If not, ill swap the o2 sensor(s). ECU code was 0000.

Transmission fluid looked fine on the dipstick so i had thought it was probably ok, but when I dropped it, it was brown (not too dark) and stunk terribly. The transmission sump plug was completely clean, but ill do the transmission fluid again after say 500kms since its only 4 out of 10 litres from the sump each time.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Just get the Transgo shift kit done Stabby, it changes most of the fluid in one hit and is a must do mod for the M35, along with the brake wire cut. It sounds like the trans has been cooking, was there much red powder in the oil pan?

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

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Not sure about red powder - i just dropped the fluid not the pan. Is the plug magnetic? Is the red powder metallic?

I'm trying to NOT mod the stag since its the daily. The GTR is for that stuff. Would you recommend the shift kit and brake mod for all use modes?

Edit:

PN - yep i'm in Sydney. Sounds like the shift kit is just better for any use type - right? I probably wont worry about the cooler tho since full synth fluid handles high temps so much better than non-syth stuff, and I wont be driving the stag too hard.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

The trans will be fine in winter, it just needs a helping hand in summer really, to cool the fluid down and help it last. Heat is what kills auto's.

I would recommend the shift kit for any M35, however it's driven. The stock pressures are very low for comfort and soft shifts, but that is what promotes clutch wear. If the clutches go it could cost you 3-4 grand for a build, unless you can pick up a S/H one to replace it.

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