Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My powerfc was tuned professionally and happily running the stock turbo for 4-5 years but the turbo has now parted ways, so i bought a hiflowed turbo, mistakenly thinking i could just keep the boost low and as long as it wasn't making more power than the stocker the tune would be roughly ok. Not the case, it runs really rich on or off boost(according to the wideband gauge)

Anyway now is not financially a good time for me to also get injectors,afm, heavy duty clutch plus the cost of another tune, so i was wondering (hoping) if anybody was willing to help roadtune the inj map to just get it running ok on say 10psi for now, i will get the afm now as its currently maxed out, but inj are only at 88% running rich so they can stay, i can offer some cash or a slab of your fav drink as payment for assistance offered, anyway just thought i'd throw it out there and sorry if it's offensive to ask such a thing from strangers.

a road tune requires a wideband 02 sensor and a competent tuner or a competent fiddler

its probably better off being done with a proper tune

if you plan on doing tuning yourself on your car buy a wideband 02 sensor and install it permenantly

then you can do it yourself

Yes i have already fitted the wideband i will need datalogit or fc hako and a suitable software program or if someone already has thise items and are willing to help then that would save me the trouble, otherwise where can i get the software from?

Your PowerFC is already tuned, it will just need a touch up tune because your boost curve has changed with a new turbo.

Make it safe, or you'll be spending a lot more in the future trying to get it running again.

I'll ask but i know on there website status state they don't adjust other peoples tunes they do a reset and start from scratch, i assume most would want to do the same, afterall new turbo and afm would be seen as major modification.

You could always ask a few tuners what a quick run-in tune would cost, something that could get you around on low boost until you save the rest of the coin. If they know you are coming back to pay the rest and finish the tune, they may be ok with it... It's worth asking anyway.

Something tells me Trent may be a little busy at the moment. :P

  • 2 weeks later...

i have a full fc-edit (fc datalogit) kit for sale with legit software if you get stuck. $250 it is registered so updates can be downloaded and unlocks the diy tuner group on yahoo.

i have a full fc-edit (fc datalogit) kit for sale with legit software if you get stuck. $250 it is registered so updates can be downloaded and unlocks the diy tuner group on yahoo.

How long did it take before you could acess that online user group? They just ignored me after buying from them and sending through my activation email. :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...