Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

So I span out and hit the left hand side both rims + tyres against the sidewalk. Both right sides are okay.

Front left will not hold air, back left will hold a small amount air.

Are these fixable? If so , how much on average and any recommendations on whom to take it to ? (not sure what the materials of these rims are or how many piece they are, if anybody knows please chime in)

Veilside Andrews 18' Chrome

F 235 40 18 +38 offset

R 255 35 18 +38 offset

located in menai , sydney

Front

20130625_161408_zps46078890.jpg20130625_161408_zps46078890.jpg

Rear

20130625_160914_zps491c1489.jpg

20130625_161424_zps38e21827.jpg

Would love to get my car back on the road ASAP , any help appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Edited by tripsteady

If it was me I'd buy that set of wheels I always wanted.

or a cheaper good set.

Those Veilsides don't appear anything super special to spend money to repair

thanks , but i wasnt asking for your opinion on the wheels itself , i love how they look on the car and dont have the money right now to splurge on those set of xxr's ive always wanted. just trying to ascertain whether its worth repairing those two(or even possible) or should I simply go out and drop a few hundred on a set of povo rims?

Centres are alloy, not sure of outside. if its the rear rim in the 3rd photo there's a crack near the valve stem on the centre section that will need looking at, but they are repairable (have had a few fixed that were worse)

Centres are alloy, not sure of outside. if its the rear rim in the 3rd photo there's a crack near the valve stem on the centre section that will need looking at, but they are repairable (have had a few fixed that were worse)

cheers man . yes funnily enough the worse looking rear rim can hold some kind of air while the front doesnt even fill up

pm sent re price of repair

XXRs arent a great deal of money, I had my old set landed for $800. After getting these all fixed up and looking pretty again you wouldnt be far off the price of a new set of XXRs man. Maybe just get some cheap shit wheels to get it driveable and save up for the new ones you wanted?

XXRs arent a great deal of money, I had my old set landed for $800. After getting these all fixed up and looking pretty again you wouldnt be far off the price of a new set of XXRs man. Maybe just get some cheap shit wheels to get it driveable and save up for the new ones you wanted?

XXRs arent a great deal of money, I had my old set landed for $800. After getting these all fixed up and looking pretty again you wouldnt be far off the price of a new set of XXRs man. Maybe just get some cheap shit wheels to get it driveable and save up for the new ones you wanted?

well looking at estimates after research it seems to be about 150-170 per wheel to fix it. two more tyres and thats about $500. Dont want to have to waste time finding some povo rims , fir them on , then save up again (unfortunately because of uni and work my priorities are not my car anymore so all mods are on hold until my savings are back up)..

prefer to spend abut $500,get my car back on the road and leave it as that

my advice would be get a set of stock rims, whatever, can be had cheap (100-200) sometimes including tyres too - of course depending on condition, but could last you until you save up for whatever you want.

but yeah you could just fix them up and run them again. but i think, having read AND talked to other wheel repairers (i had buckles worse than these), even if you fix them they will never be the same structural integrity again AND not to mention, do you know if the buckle goes all the way to the other side? Something that bad usually buckles the entire rim...if you stick it on a wheel balancer you'll see. Thought it's obviously bad enough to not hold air so...yeah

my advice would be get a set of stock rims, whatever, can be had cheap (100-200) sometimes including tyres too - of course depending on condition, but could last you until you save up for whatever you want.

but yeah you could just fix them up and run them again. but i think, having read AND talked to other wheel repairers (i had buckles worse than these), even if you fix them they will never be the same structural integrity again AND not to mention, do you know if the buckle goes all the way to the other side? Something that bad usually buckles the entire rim...if you stick it on a wheel balancer you'll see. Thought it's obviously bad enough to not hold air so...yeah

hmm, this means i have to get the car to pedders and have it highered before putting the stock ones on as well..another hassle..

honestly...i dont see myself spending money on quality rims for some time , got alot of other stuff to do first. would love to just get these fixed....if possible...

got a reply from these guys,they claim the wheel isn't fixable :( hope they are wrong

Ide just hunt down a set of cheap rims and tyres, they are out there. Standard 5x114.3 falcon / territory rims will clear your brakes and can be had with usable tyres for under $200. Hell, I just got myself a set of r32 gtr wheels with yokohama advan r1s with near full tread for $400. In the long run, you will have more money in your pocket by getting something cheap to suit in the meantime then you would finding a place to fix these.

  • Like 1

Remove the 2 wheels and take them to some place like Magman: http://www.yellowpages.com.au/nsw/punchbowl/magman-workshop-for-wheels-12104555-listing.html, if he can fix them it will probably be $80-100 each. tyres look fine? they likely won't be holding air because of the damage to the lip of the wheel - not making a proper seal...

There is a company down in wollongong (unanderra actually) called spot on wheel repairs.

When i aquaplained into a ditch on the highway headed home one night, my left rear rim looked like a cresent moon!! and the front left took a bit of a bump too.

I had work equips on the car.

The centers were ok thankfully.

These guys took all 4 rims, pulled them apart, resprayed the centers for me, straightened out the barrels, repolished the barrels and put them all back together again, and they looked a million dollars. Ran straight and true, balanced very well and held air like a brand new rim.

Although it cost me a grand to get them that way, but they looked brand new.

So if you only need two of them done, and not worried about the center respray, you should get away with under $500 (hopefully).

will remove tomorrow

looking at a few cheapies in the meantime :

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/sydney-region/wheels-tyres-rims/rims/1021626824

would 255 tyres rear and 235 front fit on an 8 inch wide rim?

255 is too wide for 8", 235 is spot on.

You have a wide selection of wheels you can use. Just look for stockies with tyres.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...