Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Perhaps you have a blocked cat and this is what the sensor is telling you?

Wouldnt expect it to just all of a sudden block and cause the car not to start at all.

The sensor just unscrews from the cat. Mine still works (AFAIK anyway)

The sensor only makes the warning light come on on the dash, it doesn't send any signal to the ECU.

I changed my fried cat and couldn't get the sensor out so I just cut it and blocked the hole in the new cat with a bolt.

The light comes on and goes out when the car is started.

Your cat may be blocked, or your not starting problem could be totally unrelated...

Try removing the cat and starting the car, if it starts, smash the guts out of your cat, reinstall and buy a new cat ASAP.

Same problem with my car .

My car runs and drives fine tho,but the car wont idle for more than 5mins even after a drive and the owner told me the cat temp is not plugged in thats why its causing it to automatically shutdown or theres more to it than that? & the temp light is always on.

thats the light thats always onpost-112075-0-61525800-1372779439_thumb.jpg

any help would be great.

Yes that's my understanding of the R33 too.

In an R32 the cat over temp light is the check engine light so it does connect to the ecu for that purpose.

Can't understand people hacking wires.

Under the passenger seat you can UNPLUG the cat sensor wiring, no need for butchery.

Fit a grommet in the floor pan hole and it's looking good.

Well mods on the

-Full 3" exhaust

-Fuel pump

-pod filter

-TS boost T

stock everything.

idles fine n drives n sounds fine! But if i start the car let it idle it just won't idle for longer than 5mins its the same even after a drive it automatically turns off the car

But all electronics are on all i have to do is turn the key to the right n it starts again fine.

Try hard wiring the fuel pump using the 'how to', most aftermarket pumps don't like the low power supplied by the factory fuel pump controller. To test it you could run a temporary wire to the battery...

What pump did you install?

well this morning i started up to see how long it will run for

it ran for 12mins n could of kept going so believe it or not it didnt happen today

when i came back from work,it usually runs for a bit n shuts down this time it ran for a while till i got bored like wtf :closedeyes:

i bought the car with the fuel pump already installed.the last owner put it in and he said it holds up to 600hp i believe

Brand- no idea

i'll ask for details coz he said he would fix the shutting down problem anyway.

since he said its cat being unplugged,now i know its not im not happpy :verymad:

Reset the ECU. Quick to do and sometimes solves the problems.

Disconnect battery (negative terminal), Hold foot on brakes, flick lights on and off etc, basically just do whatever you can to drain any residual power.

Wait for 10 mins or so then plug the battery back in and start the car, go for a drive etc.

I'm not sure if the 10 mins of sitting is necessary but just to be sure

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!
    • Yeah - I found the same information too.. 30% open is like 85% of flow etc. So it's probably going to be minor if not completely imperceptible. I also have a larger pod filter here, will swap that on and see if there's any difference. The hardest part is finding a place to uh, test this. It's quite noticable just how much having ducting to the otherwise completely open pod cools the intake temps down. It's better boxed, or shielded but driving for 30 seconds really makes it plummet to near ambient temperatures. I recall in the past when I was a RB land and had a nice flowing airbox -  - Then I took the lid off and put a pod there, and gained 9 psi of boost and about 60kw from the restriction I didn't know I had - with the controller at same duty cycle. However finding people using over the radiator intakes having similar KPA drops at WOT on built setups makes me think there restriction could be the exhaust or potentially the headers. Either way though, there's no real estate to play with and nothing that can realistically be done about it. The original dyno plot without the airbox, and the larger pod had a better curve. It was later I added the ducting and airbox, and a smaller pod to make it fit in there...
    • That's not completely truthful now is it? Any flex fuelled factory cars also had the option to run on steam.
    • Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service.   There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)
    • Looks like whiteline don't do springs any more, part# used to be 70191 from a search. Any spring for a 32/33 GTR should fit, just look for something factory not lowered/firmer unless that is your goal
×
×
  • Create New...