Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i was wondering what size exhaust would be best for my n/a r34? 2 & 1/4 .. 2 & 1/2 ??
would extractors be a gain or worth it?

would it be worth getting a hi flow cat ??
im looking for power increase i know that not enough back pressure can have power loss...

help is much appreciated!! :)

thanks in advance.

regards, Giuseppe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428061-best-exhaust-on-na-r34/
Share on other sites

.... Oh god, it's one page back just look.

I'll make it simply, the exhaust is a waste of time for powahhhh it's just for noise wank factor.

2 1/2 inch with a twin tip muffler at the back and a single resonator... It'll be loud and droney have fun

Use the search button. This is the second incredibly pointless and numerously answered thread you have started. Use the search button or go through a few pages. The N/A section is basically 5 questions asked 200 times.

Exhaust = wank factor. End of story. N/a twincam skylines sound like crap anyway. They rasp, they drone, they have a terrible throaty noise in the low revs and have will not impress anyone. They will sound better with a stock exhaust, trust me. If you're so adamant about noise, then put an aftermarket pod filter enclosed in an airbox. The intake noise is more than enough noise and the car will sound better then if it has an exhaust on it.

Put a varex rear muffler when you are around town and cruising on the HWY. RB doesn't sound that great when driving "normally" (under 3000rpm), sounds similar to an old Falcon. Sounds awesome when at higher revs though.

But yeah +1 for stock

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm running from the extractors back: 2.75" mandrel bent piping, hi flow 100 cell cat, resonator and a kakimoto muffler, (not a cannon).


It's sounds pretty quiet at idle and has the traditional RB sound from 3500rpm and below but once I go higher you can tell thats its definitely an N/A. (Sad face).



I've had comments on it that it does sound alright on the highway and when I give it the berries as well. (On track or private road of course.)



It makes cracks and pops from time to time too which I like as well :)


Edited by jake26

Stock system will reduce thy raspyness leaving a quiet car with intake noise which is the only noise that will sound good on your car.

According to you

No, I'm fairly sure that's fact actually.

According to you

Well you must be a minority then if you find the sound of an n/a skyline's exhaust note pleasing. Like alot of straight 6 BMW's, twincam RB motors are awfully raspy and droney in n/a form. The only real way to counteract it is to have a quiet exhaust system, or even better stock. Instead of putting up with the horrible raspy drone from an n/a, ive found it more enjoyable being able to cruise in peace and quiet. If I want noise, then I will get a pod filter in a box. Plant the car and all of a sudden it becomes brutally loud and has a nice throaty intake sound that believe you me, with a QUIET exhaust can actually be heard a hundred or so meters in front of the car. Intake noise is always drowned by loud exhausts, people dont know what they are missing out on imo lol.

Chicks get wet when they hear the mighty sound of my pod filter when i punch the throttle. This is on my 1998 mazda 121 metro. And thats before they find out my wheels are infact JDM mazda mx-5 enkei alloys!

Offset >40 with brake clearance makes the wimminz moist ;)

No, I'm fairly sure that's fact actually.

So you've heard my car before have you?

Well you must be a minority then if you find the sound of an n/a skyline's exhaust note pleasing. Like alot of straight 6 BMW's, twincam RB motors are awfully raspy and droney in n/a form. The only real way to counteract it is to have a quiet exhaust system, or even better stock. Instead of putting up with the horrible raspy drone from an n/a, ive found it more enjoyable being able to cruise in peace and quiet. If I want noise, then I will get a pod filter in a box. Plant the car and all of a sudden it becomes brutally loud and has a nice throaty intake sound that believe you me, with a QUIET exhaust can actually be heard a hundred or so meters in front of the car. Intake noise is always drowned by loud exhausts, people dont know what they are missing out on imo lol.

I wouldn't drive one if I didn't like the sound of it. Don't like it? Then don't get one. Simple

I can cruise in peace and quiet too. The sound of the RB is my peace and quiet.

Chicks get wet when they hear the mighty sound of my pod filter when i punch the throttle. This is on my 1998 mazda 121 metro. And thats before they find out my wheels are infact JDM mazda mx-5 enkei alloys!

True story!

Though need stainless intake pipe to attract teh 9s and 10s.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...